To anyone else,

I have been asked about "Grams per kilowatt HOUR".

I have kept records on dry weight totals in eleven week cycles, eight weeks flowering, one week in rinse, one week to dry and one week cure for about six months now but I destroy after every cycle so I cannot post at this time. However, I just cleaned, flushed, and re-nuted all of my tanks and tubs and restarted flowering two plants on the ninth of May I have created a spreadsheet that covers everything you would want to know about my methods and results and will post the first chapter in ten to eleven weeks with some photos along the way. Stay tuned and

Thanks for following along.

I'd like to be sure my words are not misconstrued by anyone, so please allow me to further clarify my stance on the use of CFLs.

Firstly, Grassy, you said you couldn't find CFLs in your area (?). Be aware you don't need 42 or greater bulbs to start out; heck, I use mostly 27watt bulbs with a few 42's in reflector housings I bought at Home Depot.

I first chose compact fluorescents because I was broke, and had no idea what I was doing. After years of screwing up, finally started to get a handle on the entire process, but stayed with my original lights - because they work, and because the are relatively much cheaper to purchase and run.

HID's put out a superior product, of that there is no doubt. Will I ever make the switch ? Probably not, as the cost is (for me) just not worth it. I do not need the fattest, densest bud out there, just want to grow some decent meds, which as it happens is attainable using curly little light bulbs.

One thing I am doing though, is increasing my PAR levels by redesigning my lighting setup - basically doubling the number of bulbs overhead,as well as those I can position manually.

So, both work, both have their fans and detractors. Pick one

Say Dobbie, what do you think about adding a UVB florescent? I've been reading a lot about others adding UVB to the mix and am considering.

Hey 52HD, Floger, good thread guys. Generated a lot of interesting comments.

I have not looked into UVB at all, so really cannot say, From what I've heard here, there are peeps who swear by it, and others who are not so sure.

One theory as to why cannabis produces thc is to protect the plant from UVB rays. Very possible, but if this were true, why do no other plants do the same ? Sorry for going off-topic, I tend to sometimes turn off the brain and let the fingers just wander aimlessly over the keyboard.

I lump this (UV) in with adding CO2, foliar feeding, and the use of extravagant and sometimes very expensive nutes. Added together, I'm fairly certain there will be improvements in your production. The big question, at least for me is, is this worth the cost and effort ? Answer that, and you've made your decision.

Cheers

HD- I think it was Fulvic that posted a bunch of detailed info on UVB about a month ago. Things like what range of UVB was the most effective and whatnot. Seemed like UVB would be the final tweak in a well oiled machine because the consensus was that it was hard to judge weather or not it actually helped

Thanks Doobie,

I'm glad you're enjoying the contents but most of the credit goes to the readers that comprehend and comment, or those who don't and ask questions (and/or make comments). The rest of the credit goes to Floger for outing me and my grow in the first place (he's twelve now and we're so proud). We couldn't keep this thread growing without you guys. No new content equals dead thread.

The reason I ask, is that I too have heard (and therefore read) a lot here and from other sources, and thought you might have some insight. If it would make a better end product, I could easily and inexpensively add another 'Y' adapter and the bulb.

NOTE TO EVERYONE: WATCH YOUR AMPERAGE LOADING ON ANY AND ALL POWER CORDS AND PLUGS/CONNECTIONS. I can get away with adding Ys as my cords and plugs are of heavy gauge, up to a point. The plugs (and any other connection points) are the weakest links so, if warm to touch, monitor and replace. If hot, replace.

Now look who's "going off-topic".

I'll shelve the idea for now as any testing without a lab would be subjective and my stuff's good to me as it is.

Later.

Thanks for the info SSofDark,

I'll look through Fulvic's post.

Hope everything is going well with you and yours, It's good to 'hear' from you.

Later.

1952,

sorry it took awhile for me to respond. i must give you props on the fact that you are so open to the disagreements that people are having with your setup (as with anyones setup) and not bashing them and actually reading and understanding where they are coming from yet politely declining some of there suggestions, shows real maturity and a willingness to perfect your technique.

you said you are in the south as am i, and i have a little 40inchx40inchx7 foot box im using my 400 hps in. sometimes have a little issue with regulating the temp but thinking of running a ducting from the ac vent directly into the box to pump more cool air in so i dont have to by a portable ac unit. the idea of CFLS and the temp remaining cooler cuz of them is very intriguing tho. i will definitely be watching for your spread shit in the upcoming weeks to monitor your results against my results with my 400 hps. keep up the good work man!!!!!!!!!

Hey Fera,

No problem, we're all here just sitting around bouncing ideas off each other.

I'm okay with disagreement as long as it stays on point. We just have to agree to disagree and let the rest go. It makes for a good discussion as long as no one gets personal, then the hair on the back of my neck bristles, kinda like that dog you have there. But thanks, I do my best.

I like the HPSs and may go back there again someday, but (starting fresh with lots of cash) I think I would go with a water cooled fixture to start with as opposed to air cooled. I'm a pretty good do it yourself-er and could easily hook up an external (to the building) fan, radiator, tank and pump. A pump is much cheaper to operate than an A/C unit and properly sized, would remove almost if not all, of the heat generated by the light(s)(that's what I heard anyway).

As far as tying into an existing A/C duct line, I would imagine you'd want to add a variable speed inline fan to pull the cool air and push it into the fixture, it depends on where the tie in is, at the start or end of the ducting run. The variable speed would allow you to control how much cool air you draw from the system. This all assumes you have a closed fixture, of course. A/C units and ducting are usually sized for the anticipated building load and you are adding to that load. A room or two at the end of the ducting run may not be cooled as well as before, but then you are only talking about a seventy eight cubic foot space...

I think my grow works well because I have so many CFLs and they are very close to the plants. When I replace the twelve existing sixty five watt bulbs, I may go to one hundred five watt bulbs as that seems to be the largest bulb with a standard base. Anything larger uses a mogul base. Maybe something like this: http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/8255/FC105-S27OD.html

I will get a spread sheet in order but I can't promise it anytime soon as I recently emptied the flowering closet for cleaning and have started adding plants back (two plants every two weeks). The first two ladies will come out on July eleventh. The records kept for the last six months were on a calendar and were destroyed when the last girls came out. I didn't imagine that anyone would want to see my results in the future but... the future is now and I'm unprepared.

Thanks again for the kind words and I look forward to next time.

Krimzon once told me:

"Apparently a water cooled 1000W light can be fucking humped by a plant since it's so cool. However if you blot all the sun, you'll get a few real good top colas, but the rest of your plant won't get shit. You'll also really diminish the potential canopy size."

Even I wouldn't mount a one thousand watt HPS that close. LOL.