Jump to content
Jpl

"Liquid Dolomite" how often?

Recommended Posts

My soil is starting to drop in it's ph, I'm correcting this with Eco-flo ( Liquid) Dolomite but not sure how often to use in containers?

I applied it 2 weeks ago when the Ph started to drop, it's now at 5 1/2 again so i have reapplied it today.

Ph is back up to 7-6 1/2 as in the before & after pic's below.

Cheer's...

 

20181104_135937.jpg

20181104_141411.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're soil is acidic why don't you just a higher ph of water to keep it in the zone.

 

You can get granular dolomitic limestone, which is more slow release and add to your soil before the grow starts.

 

Otherwise you are going to have to check weekly and treat as you are doing. One of the reasons I went over to no till organic, no need to worry about PH of water as soil keeps itself balanced.

 

I would also get yourself a decent PH pen, I wouldn't trust that paper litmus stuff to be very accurate.

 

I can't see the difference between the before and after pics. For soil vegging your ph should be 6.3 -6.5 and higher for when in flower 6.5 6.7.

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good Morning Shadey.

13 hours ago, Shadey said:

If you're soil is acidic why don't you just a higher ph of water to keep it in the zone.

 

The soil is 2 month old potting mix & compost in "containers" as in my first topic post on this forum. I am using plain old tap water,

pH (units) 7.2-7.7 6.7-7.5

depending of the location's water source. 

13 hours ago, Shadey said:

I would also get yourself a decent PH pen, I wouldn't trust that paper litmus stuff to be very accurate.

 

I can't see the difference between the before and after pics.

 

This test consists of a 2 part's,

A Dye indicator (liquid) & Barium Sulphate (powder). This is not our old school litmus paper indicator strip, a little more accurate i would have to think. The chemical reaction & color shift is very noticeable to my eye's with the before & after pic's. I have tested this on a few things around the house and seems to indicate pretty accurately amongst acidic & alkaline.

The sample's of soil were taken from 2 inche's below the surface, though (per direction's) it's a little deeper into soil. 

I bought the Liquid Dolomite instead of the slower release gear to condition the soil mix faster. First time growing pot in pot's, I will use the granular in the pot's soil mix next season. 

 

With the Ph pen, this would be used just to test the run off in my case being in pot's is this correct?

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Jpl said:

With the Ph pen, this would be used just to test the run off in my case being in pot's is this correct?

No, I would use it to ph you're water down to 6.3 before you give it to the plant's. You can bye ph up or down kits to adjust your water ph but I use cal/ mag to ph my water down and potassium silicate to ph up, this was before I went over to no till soil. That way you need less buffers in your soil.

 

You just let your water stand for 24 hours minimum to get rid of the chlorine first. Normally the ph will climb up as you let water stand.Then just ph down to whatever ph you want.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IMG_20181106_114334.thumb.jpg.cf639260022da6d6633ba00b730a566e.jpgDone a few little experiments this morning with the ph kit, a good hour of fun.

 

Ph Chemical Reactions 

Orange being, Vinegar ph 3

Green, Sugar ph 7

Purple, Bi-carb soda 9 1/2

Lime'y Green, Tomato 4 1/2

Brown, Coffee ( colour reaction was incomplete )

 

For canned tomatoes and tomato paste, the pH range is 3.5-4.7. For tomato juice, the range is 4.1-4.6.

 

Sugar is a pH-neutral substance, meaning that its pH value is usually more or less than 7, but close.

 

On the pH scale, which runs from 0 to 14, the pH level of vinegar is between 2 and 3.

 

Baking soda, also known as sodium bicarbonate, has a pH of 9, making it a mildly alkaline substance.

 

Edited by Jpl
Additional text
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jpl said:

For canned tomatoes and tomato paste, the pH range is 3.5-4.7. For tomato juice, the range is 4.1-4.6.

You would be better testing it against known ph values, to check its effectiveness. You can get calibration solutions.

 

When you have ranges between .5 and 1 on a reading, that could be the difference between feeding well, and a complete lock out.

 

I think you are going to frustrate the hell out of yourself using that system.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

G'day Shadey,

Im just having fun with it all. 

If i run into any major problems in the future and it needing to be a bit more fine tuned i will invest in an Expensive Digital meter, for my money's worth.

Been reading to much negative comments on the el-cheap'os...

Since im working with soil & not doing any Hydro/Aero system's i dont think i i need to spend close to $200'ish. Everything is green & lush in the pic's.

As i think you said just look after my water's Ph & evaporate the chlorine.

 

I done a test of the tap water this morning aswell. I judged 7ph give or take 1 colour shift if thing's were picky, but i did not include it in my post. I'll mess with this tomorrow & see what happens with the mineral & bottled water as i said just to have fun with it all.

What experiments are you up too???

Cheer's boss...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Jpl said:

Been reading to much negative comments on the el-cheap'os...

Yeah they don't last long, I had 2 in the first seven months of indoor growing.

 

I got a good one for$100 on eBay or was it Amazon. I can find a link for it if and when you decide to buy one lol.

 

At the moment I have a new strain growing, 3 seeds hatched of blue dream. A X between LSD and purple urkle. Just need one good female. The only other thing I am attempting is getting 6x 10 gal pots and 3x 5 gal pots in a 4x4ft tent for vegging lol.

 

I would just use the dolomite half strength every 2-3 weeks and see how that goes, try to keep the PH of your water around 6 and when they start to flower increase the PH to 6.5 it will aid potassium and Phosphorus absorption. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Shadey said:

I would just use the dolomite half strength every 2-3 weeks and see how that goes,

 

Ok Shadey, I'm confused with this testing kit now.

Can the plant really absorb that much Calcium & Magnesium in two weeks as i only added a smaller application to it last week??? 

I re-tested the soil 1 inch down in the pot this morning and it showed that the Ph is back down all ready to  4 1/2.

The pic indicate's the before & after treatment bellow.

If it was really this bad the plant would look obviously sick with Calcium & Magnesium deficiency's, please look at the bottom pictures. I see a couple of rust spot's on this older leaf but is not wide spred a little here and there on older growth. 

Does it seem like Calcium as there is not a sign of Magnesium deficiency???

 

Am i being led a stray with this Soil Ph Kit?

Am i supposed to just concentrate on the Ph of the water going in, and not Ph of the soil?

 

Also if i decided to re-pot this into a slightly bigger pot and with the extra soil add in the Granular Lime this would help steady it out for the next

5 month's?

That's if im "really" having any trouble with this kit and nothing is wrong.....

Jpl...

 

20181107_093434.jpg

20181107_102902.jpg

20181107_101128.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Jpl said:

Ok Shadey, I'm confused with this testing kit now.

Yes, I said it would frustrate you ;) 

 

Dont panic, looks more like nutrient burn starting with those brown tips but its only a guess atm, need to see where those leaves are in relation to the plant. different problems start in different sections.

 

When growing in soil people usually buy a pre made growing soil that may need a few amendments at specific times in the grow, but is basically up to the job. These will usually be buffered with dolomitic limestone and or gypsum which also has sulfur in it. Either of those are good time release buffers. So you would just PH your water between 6-7 and the buffers do the rest.

 

I am not sure what soil you have whether bought or dug out of your yard?

 

If you are using your own soil you would add a 1/3 of a cup of dolomitic limestone or gypsum, I use gypsum, to a 5 Gal pot which is not a lot.

 

In your situation I would PH the water, its so much easier than keep pulling the plant out of the pot, all the time, to see what the root zone PH is, and guessing how much you have to change it to correct it, when your test could put between .5 and 1 PH point out anyway. Most tap water is around PH 7, mine is 7. 2, if I leave it to stand 24-36 hours its PH will rise to 8-8.5. If you put that in a pot with no soil buffers your plants are going to starve to death from nutrient lockout. So you either have to PH your water or have balanced soil in the pot with plenty of buffers, also in a smaller pot its more difficult to keep things in balance. Bigger the pot the slower the changes take place, because there is more minerals food and bacteria keeping things in check, so measurements become less critical. 

 

 

2 hours ago, Jpl said:

Can the plant really absorb that much Calcium & Magnesium in two weeks as i only added a smaller application to it last week??? 

very possibly, depending on conditions, high heat and low humidity will cause a substantial increase in uptake of water calcium, and potassium, causing deficiencies in them. It can also cause nutrient burn as well.

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do i really need an EC/PPM meter, what is this for?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Jpl said:

Do i really need an EC/PPM meter, what is this for?

Hi man, EC and PPM are really more for hydro and dwc.

 

Not knowing what is available for grower's where you are, you could prpbably make 20 times more soil than you need of very nice soil, that doesn't need water to be PH ed. For 200$ and if you were to treat it as a no till grow wouldn't ever need changing with only small amounts of supplements to keep it running smoothly.

 

When I get on my PC I will find a link for the ph pen I have, and a list of soil ingredients. You can see what you can find and maybe save some money, and have a totally organic grow with minimal maintenance.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Shadey, 

There's also a Standard pH pen of the same brand for AU$130, but doesn't contain the buffing solution.

I would be thinking now the Chemical Kit is letting me know that the soil is low in pH (this has to be right to a point) & because of it eating all the Calcium & Magnesium, in a pot that wasn't amended with enough Lime in for a 5 odd month stint. That's my fault, lesson learned. I've only ever grow "Annual's" in pot's & they dont consume all that food never thought of it wasn't thinking that far ahead.

So this pH pen thing will just be other interesting experiment $100 buck's for one instead of 3 or 4 of them a $20.

Next grow the soil mixture will have enough elements for a season boss.

Jpl...

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A $25 ppm meter will last for ages.  Just need a bottle of 1000ppm calibration solution to check it once in a while and that lasts for a decade at least.   I have a Hanna ppm pen I bought more than 20 years ago for $50 and it still works fine. Can get ones as good for $20 now.

 

If using tap water you should ask for a water analysis report from your supplier to see what all is in your water.  Should be free and often just emailed to you.  Tell them you want to raise fish or brew beer if they are nosy.

 

There are other pH pen makers than BlueLab that are a lot cheaper and will last for years if properly maintained.  You can find that easy on the web.  Most people don't treat them right and they die soon as the glass probe gets screwed up.  Mine is about 7 now and still works fine.  Mine's an EcoTestr pH1.  Has a see through cap so I can see how low the storage sol'n is getting and top it up with a little RO water.  The sol'n is just salts so they don't evaporate and adding a bit of pure water gets the sol'n back to normal concentration.  eutechist.com or 4oakton.com

 

Never let a ppm pen pen sit in RO or distilled water or it will leach the salts out of the glass probe and render it useless and a new probe cost almost as much as a new pen of the same make.  Those types of water have no real pH of their own so don't need testing of any kind other than maybe ppm testing to make sure your RO water is as close to 0ppm as possible.

 

If you want to grow organically then Shadey  or Grow_Wizzard are the guys to talk to.  Hydro nutes in DWC or soilless work better for me.

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the pen I use had it 18 months and never had to re calibrate it yet, has a replaceable head as well. Looks very similar to the top one you posted.

 

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ENFOIQE/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_1

 

1 hour ago, Jpl said:

I would be thinking now the Chemical Kit is letting me know that the soil is low in pH (this has to be right to a point) & because of it eating all the Calcium & Magnesium, in a pot that wasn't amended with enough Lime in for a 5 odd month stint. That's my fault, lesson learned. I've only ever grow "Annual's" in pot's & they dont consume all that food never thought of it wasn't thinking that far ahead.

It amazes me still, how much food a cannabis plant will consume, in the right growing environment. Like body builders on steroids, of the plant kingdom.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank's for the information Labrat appreciate that, new information that will quickly leak out my ear's! Can't keep things in these day's..

 

Shadey thanks for the link i like it & it contains the buffing as well. 

No one want's to ship that brand here. Even the company's Website page dont ship.

On eBay there flogging them off at AU$180+ Buck's, step increase in the price! Double even!! Our $ is almost on par with you.

Amazon really doesn't sell/ship a lot of the products you have up north.

 

Ps, I'm sure I'll find something...

 

 

Edited by Jpl
Post script
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Jpl said:

new information that will quickly leak out my ear's!

 

That's why it's good to have a journal so you can refer back if you need too. ;)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeh write everything down that you do, temps, humidity, watering, feeds. It makes things so much easier to check back on.

 

Shame about Amazon being crap in Oz, I think they are bad here compared to the US lol.

 

Oz is like Canada in that respect of population and size, no one seems to bother trying to sell good stuff at a reasonable price because the population is low, and very spread out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/8/2018 at 1:13 PM, Shadey said:

This is the pen I use had it 18 months

 

Shadey.

I just ordered a pH meter should have it in a fortnight, let's see how close the Chemical kit come's compared to the digital.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will be interested to see.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.