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That will run your 4x4 no problem for flowering and the money you save can get a couple of the cheapo LEDs for vegging.

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That looks like the exact setup I had before, a 600W in a 24x48 tent. Thanks for sending that to me.

 

I actually just bought this tent today, a 24x48x72 tent, el-cheapo brand

 

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074H6G95M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I'll put the viparspectra 300W light in it.

Believe it or now, right now my DWC hydro buckets have lettuce, herbs and pole beans growing in it, and that's what will be in this tent until my license comes, lol.

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3 hours ago, happysmoke420 said:

have you guys think about DIY a light? i

yes I have 5 home made lights they work very well for veg, not sure what they would be like for flowering though.

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I have BAGS of through hole LED's, but what a pain in the butt it is to solder all those LED's and resistors onto a circuit board and hope that the resistors don't overheat. Also, those LED's are nowhere as bright as the ones on the market today.

I'm actually an electronics tech with years of electronics assembly experience, maybe I'm just lazy, or sick of making things now, LOL

Much easier to just buy a light because after all the expense of buying everything and putting it all together you might as well have just bought one!

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When I decided to grow indoors, I was assuming initial failure as it is completely foreign to me.   I didn't want to invest a grand on a light for what is basically an experiment.   After reading a million reviews I decided on a really cheap, non-switchable (veg/flower) 300 watt LED.  The plan was to work out the bugs and have enough light to keep things alive thru the trial. If I decide to continue, then look at a higher quality light.  Anyway I bought a couple Roleadro Galaxyhydro 300 watt lights. They are only like $75.

Well, I have to say I may just buy another of these to fill out the tent for my next grow. Veg was crazy, I've never seen plants grow like this.  I switched to flower last week and could not believe the explosive growth.  The plants love this light. 

Not sold yet as the proof in in the puff but way more optimistic than at the beginning. If it produces a smoke similar to the parents, then screw expensive lights.

 

side note, Tents are cool but what a challenge to create a plant friendly environment. The humidity where the tent is located is around 10% I have been able to get it all the way up to 30% using a full time humidifier and soaking a towel every frikin day and hanging it in the tent. Just so much air moving thru, even with the exhaust fan on the slowest speed.

 

What a great time to be a weed lover!

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Do you have a heat sensor/controller, when temperatures exceed your requirements it will switch the fan on and off when at the temp you want so it's not running constantly. If you're temps are good and you're just wanting fresh air you could put the fan on a timer so it runs for 10 minutes every hour. Which will allow the humidity to build up.

 

If you have low humidity, your plants will transpire more, and use more nutrients, which can cause nutrient burn showing on the leaves. You will also get more rapid growth to a point. Low humidity for flowering is good, but not for veg.

 

My biggest headache is the plant's temp and humidity environment. Being close to the sea RH and temps fluctuat dramatically daily. The only fairly stable part of the year is winter. Which only requires a small heater at night and the correct extractor fan speed  to keep everything on target.

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Thanks Shady. The timer is a great idea. I would have to hook it to my exhaust fan, as that is the culprit.  I'll experiment on how long the tent can sit before the skunk escapes.

 

We just returned from a week on the Oregon coast.  I was thinking while there, how easy my environment is to deal with compared to there. I know we get some great product from that part of the world but overcoming the problems must be frustrating.

 

I logged in to ask another question. Rather than starting a new post, I'll just  put it here, since you will most likely know the answer.  :

 

 

When I set up my first grow, I took some bad advise.  I used Miracle Grow soil. (universal eye roll).  Now I am into flowering. The plants are doing really well considering. The buds are forming larger than I expected but will still be stunted from the heavy nitrogen in the dirt.  I'm planning my next crop and have received my supply of fertilizer. I'm sure everyone has seen the Fox Farms trio. I was wondering if it would be completely pointless to add the flowering fertilizer into the already hot soil? The plants look healthy except some reaction from one when I dropped the humidity.

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How late in flowering are you now Boise?  After the stretch is over the plants need less N and P with more K so by week 4 you want to be backing off on the first two.  If it's in the MG soil still it's a bit of a crap shoot as I have no idea what all they put in it or how much if it is still left at this stage.

 

Some extra sulfur is good for boosting resin production and is the "secret" ingredient in most bloom boosters.  I use AN's Big Bud and have since they invented it.  It's 0-15-35, 10%S, 20 aminos with citric and ascorbic acids.  The last being vit. C.  I've grown without it and there was a big difference in bud size and resin production.  They make an organic version of it too if that's a concern but I'm not sure if the FF Trio is all organic or not.

 

I've never used MG anything but was experimenting with Promix Veg and Herb blend mixed 50:50 with the Promix HP that has no nutes and ran in to problems I've seen posted all over about using the MG.  The Veg and Herb has time release nutes too but at least they are organic but sometimes it seems they react with added nutes and let go rapidly burning the hell out of more sensitive plants.

 

What are you planning to use for grow media the next round?  With the nutes you have now you could go with soilless and have better control of what your plants get to eat.  The HP is loaded with perlite and can be used right out of the bag/bale which is what I'm using now and for all my plants grown in pots for the foreseeable future.  Other soilless blends like Sunshine Mix usually need added perlite up to 20% to get them where pot likes in terms of porosity tho can be used without it.

 

:peace:

 

 

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What Lab said 😀

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VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 450W i have used and have good result

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     Well, I think adding anything to the MG during flowering sounds like a possible death sentence, I'll just let them go as is. They are 2 1/2 weeks into flowering now.  My planned harvest for this crop was zero. I have enough life experience to know I'd probably kill the first attempt as I am overzealous and cant leave shit alone.   Of 6 starts, 2 are left, one of them was slammed into the ground upside down in a total ankle twisting cluster. Only one branch broke somehow and the plant fully recovered.

     My next grow moves out of plastic into fabric, down from 5 gallons to 2.5 gallons, only about 9 or 10" tall so more room to grow vs 5 gallon buckets.

My media is a product from Royal Gold called Basement mix. Worm and bat mostly, nothing added, maybe some beads but I haven't opened the bag yet.

Hydro would be awesome and is the long term plan, unfortunately, in this situation, to many roadblocks.

     Ok guys, I've decided for my next grow to use a scrog. It's built and ready to go.  I'll be growing  seeds named Afgani Heirloom. I'm 99.9% sure this is not what they are but will assume indica. Can a 2x4 grow tent support 3 plants in a scrog? I was going to use 2 for the first try just so I don't get a jungle. In my limited experience of growing which is a couple hidden outdoor grows, I've only grown sativa. Not sure what to expect with indica.

The scrog is only 15"x46" due to needing to leave space for a humidifier.

If anyone reads this far, thank you so much for your help. If I become irritating, let me know and I'll leave you alone. This site has a ton of info and a great community.  You are making an old stoner feel less alone out here! Also, if you are wanting more content, I can post these questions as new posts, This works good for me but I don't know the goals of the site.

I moderate a forum and we prefer threads that change subject be original posts. Anyway, just rambling now. Happy Mother's Day.

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Yes, seperate post's for different things is preferred. Don't worry about posting here, this thread went off topic a while ago, my bad.

 

You could get 3 small plants in that scrog it will just fill the screen quicker. I did two plant's on a similar size scrog, in a 4x4 tent. Fan's took up some room.

 

Indica will be smaller and bushier normally. Don't need as much light and prefer lower heat. The one's I have grown vary in their nutrient requirements.

 

First grow is all about learning what not to do lol. My first grow failed, I used bag seed and they all hermied on me halfway through flowering. I learned a lot from it though. I am also over zealous, it's a fine balance between, caring and ignoring them, if you can. I found I made bad mistakes reacting to quickly from panic, to small problems, without thinking through the best way to resolve it, and just made things worse.

 

Reading up on stuff is good, but for me I need to see it happening, for it to register properly in my head, it connects all the bits of info together into the full story, where you see the results of your errors LoL.

 

Understanding how plants work helped me a lot, you can read that they need this or that but until you understand why in it's physiology it requires it, the importance and timing is not known.

 

Yes, hang around here bud and keep the rest of us company, it's all about sharing the knowledge and helping each other grow great cannabis.

 

 

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Boise, for a ScroG the size you mention you could do it with one plant if it has legs on it.  Heavy indicas can be too squat and bushy making them poor candidates for a ScroG.  I've done quite a few and DWC ScroG kicks ass.  Half pound with one plant and almost the same in popcorn and sugar trim.  Did a real long veg time tho.

 

If those plants you want to try in ScroG are bushy I'd space one at each side of the tent and one in the middle.  After they've shown their growth pattern you can decide to ScroG or not.  I use metal sheep fencing for my screens, (don't use chicken wire as the holes are to small), and no frame.  Either support legs at each corner of a tub or suspend the screen from the top hanging on light twisted link chain and S hooks.  I also use pieces of twist tie to hold the growing tops to the screen rather than tuck in and out.  Makes it easier to harvest and if you want to re-position a branch it's real easy to do.

 

My whole thing since getting into forums has been to help other growers thru their problems and hang out with like-minded people.  I live  a pretty secluded life up here in the north with just a few friends and no family around and don't do social media so it's a good outlet.  It's pretty slow around here so I hang out at RIU under a different name too.  Used to be big at 420 mag but they started blocking TOR so can rarely log in and get booted after a while when TOR switches IPs to a banned one.  Shadey and I are the only ones keeping the doors open here and we never hear from the owners, Marc and Jodi Emery, or the webmaster.  Expect to try to log in one day and find the place shut down but so far it keeps chugging along.  What forum do you moderate on?  Maybe send a PM.

 

peace.gif

 

Wish we could get this emoji problem figured out.  Have to post the peace sign from my attachments. :(

 

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Thanks for the advise on the scrog. I wish I had known about it when I launched this grow. So tall. My lights are wired just below the top of the tent, only allowing enough room for the light's fan air to move away, like 8". Using a light meter to monitor lower buds light level and snip shade leaves.

 

As you guys are aware, there is a shit ton of misinformation on the net. I hope the lights don't go out here. What we need is guys like you that have been through it and know the cures. And aren't cynical or pissy about it. 'Oh gawd, another newb".

 

Some of my best lessons during this adventure, has been learning about how plants 'think', use nutes, grow based on correct topping, and cropping.

 

I read one long article from a guy that explains how flushing is pointless from a scientific standpoint.  Well, from a scientific standpoint, whiskey and beer have the exact same alcohol molecule so the drunk is the same, any difference is in the mind of the drinker. Well BS.  But growers that flush, swear that it works and makes a smoother, tastier smoke. Do you flush? What has been your experience? 

 

One of my crap shoots on this first grow was the seeds. I started 5 seeds from a really seedy but extremely stony bag. All turned out to be females. Now down to 2 plants, one of the seedy bag plants and one random seed from some crazy 3way hybrid. I know which is which but looking at the plants, they could be clones. Exactly the same height, leaf structure, branchyness, growth characteristics.  I'm thinking that I lost my way somewhere and they are both of from the seedy bag. Kinda hope so. I have a bunch more and if the smoke is like the parents, my spelling may suffer.

 

Keeping with the Sex, Drugs, Rock n Roll lifestyle, I am a moderator on a Swinger site.  My wife and I dabbled in the lifestyle for 5 or 6 years. Currently part of the 'vanilla' part of society.  Vanilla is a swinger term for non-swinger.

 

Well, thanks for giving me a place to spend my wake n bake. Your advise and company is much appreciated.

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1 hour ago, BoiseBud said:

Thanks for the advise on the scrog. I wish I had known about it when I launched this grow. So tall.

 

LOl its like that every grow, I wish I knew this or that as there is always a this or that, to add to the knowledge bank.

 

1 hour ago, BoiseBud said:

As you guys are aware, there is a shit ton of misinformation on the net. I hope the lights don't go out here. What we need is guys like you that have been through it and know the cures. And aren't cynical or pissy about it. 'Oh gawd, another newb". 

 

That's what I meant about understanding plant physiology or "how they think". When your understanding is better you can make educated decisions on problems and how to correct them and why they are happening.

 

Everyone who comes here has the same interest, growing good weed, I cant speak for other forums, but here we try and help and support new growers, and point them in the right direction, but its what we know specific to our grows, which may not work for yours 100%. People have different knowledge, and opinions, on how that is done, but you have to take into account all the variables, like regional climates, outdoors, indoors, sealed room, organic soil, non organic, hydro, flood and drain drip feed and the list goes on lol. There is no real, best way, because everything is interdependent and specific for you and your grow. You can fire a plant in a pot and leave it, so long as it gets some water on a regular basis it will grow, how much it will grow is dependent on all the above combinations  of criteria, and how much you know about your plants, and environment, which will be different to every one elses. So rather than saying information is right or wrong think of it more like a general guideline for a specific strain or environment until you use it and know for sure and then tweak it to suit you. Unfortunately there are some people who think that their way, is the only and best way, luckily not here though lol.

 

1 hour ago, BoiseBud said:

I read one long article from a guy that explains how flushing is pointless from a scientific standpoint

Again this is dependent on your type of grow. Mine is organic so I have no reason to flush as I see it, as their is no harsh chemicals in my soil or plants.

 

For you using MG 🤢, (lol I did as well before I knew better)  I would definitely flush them, although from a scientific standpoint he may be right, it depends why you are flushing. Most people like myself are/were under the impression flushing gets rid of all the chemical nutes they use to improve growth, but once its in the plant that's where it will stay to a point. It doesn't mean it will not improve anything though by flushing a plant, because the plant will use up any unused nutrients within itself whilst the flushing is happening reducing the amount left over after harvest, especially if you didn't flush.

 

1 hour ago, BoiseBud said:

One of my crap shoots on this first grow was the seeds. I started 5 seeds from a really seedy but extremely stony bag. All turned out to be females. Now down to 2 plants, one of the seedy bag plants and one random seed from some crazy 3way hybrid. I know which is which but looking at the plants, they could be clones. Exactly the same height, leaf structure, branchyness, growth characteristics.  I'm thinking that I lost my way somewhere and they are both of from the seedy bag. Kinda hope so. I have a bunch more and if the smoke is like the parents, my spelling may suffer.

 

I was the same, I didn't want to spend a load of money on seeds knowing I will probably kill the plants before my first harvest anyway lol.  

 

Most plants look alike unless you have non hybrids in either indica or sativa that's when you will see bigger differences. My last grow was CD1 a hybrid and has 2 pheno types with majorities in either indica or sativa, unknown until the plant was 2-3 weeks old and looked almost identical but produced different shape and quantity of buds. So every grow is a bit of a crap shoot unless you are using clones from a known, previously grown and used plant.

 

2 hours ago, BoiseBud said:

Keeping with the Sex, Drugs, Rock n Roll lifestyle, I am a moderator on a Swinger site.  My wife and I dabbled in the lifestyle for 5 or 6 years. Currently part of the 'vanilla' part of society.  Vanilla is a swinger term for non-swinger.

 

I expect Labrat will have a few questions for you lol.  ;)

 

2 hours ago, BoiseBud said:

Well, thanks for giving me a place to spend my wake n bake. Your advise and company is much appreciated.

 

If you get bored and want a disjointed conversation click on the chatbox tab at the top of the page, Lab and some of us hang around their its an "instant chat page", but sometimes you might have to wait a bit to get an answer lol.

 

 

 

 

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Hi guys.  Been awhile. Checked chat a few times but not anything going on. 

All 9 of my grand children and their parents were here for the week for the graduation of the oldest.  They all left yesterday morning and we spent the day in damage control.

It was nice having my son here though. He helped me pour a concrete floor in my grow area, added padded carpet, and a small chair and table.  What I saw as a strictly 'business' space, he saw as man cave potential lol.

My surviving 2 plants have been in flower for a month now. Finally showing definite signs that they are not the same strain. Wasn't really sure for most of the grow as they look so much alike.  I was thinking that a month would be plenty of time to finish flowering but they still look like another week, maybe 2.  Covered in frost but still kinda small and clear.

What has been your experience in flower timing? I've had trouble keeping the temp below 80 f during the day, drops to high 60s at night. Do you think the higher temp is causing the long flower time? I have an idea to lower the temp for the next grow's flowering, if it's important enough.

Enjoy the day! Spring is here!

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Hi Boise,

10 hours ago, BoiseBud said:

What has been your experience in flower timing? I've had trouble keeping the temp below 80 f during the day, drops to high 60s at night. Do you think the higher temp is causing the long flower time? I have an idea to lower the temp for the next grow's flowering, if it's important enough

 50 days is the fastest I have heard of with autos, most indica are 60-70 days,some Sativas can go 90+ days, the heat will not affect the flowering time just the quality of the bud. Its the plant's genetics which decide the flowering time. Ideally 70-75F but my last grow was 75-85F in flower its the humidity which is more what you want to keep your eye on for mold reasons, try and keep it below 50%. You need to get some kind of magnifier 30-50 times and check the trichs, your looking for predominantly milky to amber color if they are mostly clear its not ready.

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Yea, a few seconds after I asked that, I realized I wasn't even half way there.  That was a relief. Even though I'm getting a few seeds on a plant, they are shaping up to be huge 12"+ buds (30cm). Thankfully I kept the stems stressed because even now, they are starting to sway heavily.  The performance of these cheap LED lights under my constant murder attempts is far exceeding my expectations.  The temp is finally controlled between 68f and 75f, humidity is hanging in at about 35%. 

 

I decided at the start of flowering to go ahead and supplement one plant with a guano, worm casting liquid. Label says safe any time, but I started slow, about 1/4 dose. I only water when my plants beg for it which is bad, but not as bad as over watering. About every 4 or 5 days.  The boosted plant has surpassed the other by about 20% in overall mass.

Some of this I can blame on seeds but not all. Every day, bigger fatter longer. Staring at them usually has that affect on me as well hehe. jk

Checking the trichs, they are small and clear and growing daily and oh so beautiful.

 

Side note: When I water, I flood the pot, to nearly the top, let it absorb and do that again. Once the water is pouring out of the bottom, I figure it's wet.  I add the fert the next day, in about a quart of water.  Still alive.   I've tried a few sensors but haven't found one that works for soil water content. They all just say bone dry, all the time. The plants sag when they want water. Seems accurate.

 

Enjoy!

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On 5/31/2018 at 2:58 PM, BoiseBud said:

Side note: When I water, I flood the pot, to nearly the top, let it absorb and do that again. Once the water is pouring out of the bottom, I figure it's wet.  I add the fert the next day, in about a quart of water.  Still alive.   I've tried a few sensors but haven't found one that works for soil water content. They all just say bone dry, all the time. The plants sag when they want water. Seems accurate.

 

 

I just stick my finger down the side of the pot in the soil, if it still feels moist at the finger tip I am good for a couple more days, Drying them right out just slows them down a bit, If you can time it just before they start wilting thats perfect.

 

If your seeing more growth on the fed one, start to feed that other one as well, still got time to boost it up a bit. Get some pics up lets see them big old colas. You need to get some support sticks for them. Your RH is perfect low humidity boosts terpines and trich development. 

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A few pictures I just took. Had to downsize them a lot so quality is medium low.

6-2 5 week flower a.JPG

6-2 5 week flower b.JPG

6-2 5 week flower c.JPG

6-2 5 week flower d.JPG

6-2 5 week flower e.JPG

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Wow, you got some good trich development, looking very frosty indeed. Nice healthy looking plants, I take it you were feeding the ones on the left, they will start to really fatten up in the last 4-3 weeks. so use the recommended dosage on the instructions for your next feed those plants look big enough to handle it.

 

I reduce my pictures to screen resolution, the quality doesn't make much difference on here.

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Is it worth going with MH for veg and HPS for bloom or just rock HPS all the way through?

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High Tvoyamo420

 

Depends on the quality of the lights.  I've been running MH and HPS lights for near 20 years and prefer bulbs like Hortilux, SunMaster etc.  Champagne taste on a beer budget my mom always says but she agrees that you get what you pay for.  She's 90 now and still sharp as a tack.

 

For a long time now they've made Ceramic Metal Halide bulbs that work in older HPS magnetic ballasts but I've never got any as they aren't easy to get for some reason.  They can do veg and flower really well.  The new 315, 630 and 945W CMH light systems are looking really good but you need fairly deep pockets to get them.

 

I have a variety of HPS bulbs in 400 and 1000W.  My faves are the Hortilux but they are not cheap.  I have a 940W conversion bulb the size of a football that gives me HPS light off a Metal Halide ballast.  I paid $170 for it a couple years ago and now it goes for almost $300.  Last summer I scored a MH/HPS magnetic ballast for $70 so can use the regulat Hortilux Super HPS bulbs that go for around $100.

 

I still use a 17 year old 400W Hortilux conversion bulb that gives me MH type light off a HPS ballast.  It cost $125 back in 2001 but I sure got my money's worth and the plants still grow great under it.  The light tube inside has developed a blister along it so I'm pretty sure it's not long for this world. :)

 

The latest light systems are LED with COB LEDs becoming the leaders.  A really decent one that would do the same as as a 1000W HPS will cost upwards of $1400 where a 1000W HPS ballast and Hortilux bulb will run a 1/3 of that.  If I had no lights I'd probably go with COBs but I already have many HID ballasts and lights so it would cost way too much to switch to more efficient lighting.

 

1 - 1000W MH ballast, 1 - 1000W MH/HPS. 3 - 400W HPS, 1 - 400W MH, 2 -150W HPS, all magnetic ballasts and many other fluoro/LED lighting systems.

 

I built my own LED light with 11 - 9W bulbs  with the globes busted off.  Pretty sure that their 5000K light output doesn't work well for vegging plants.  My old 8 - tube, T-12 light fixture I built 17 years ago seems to grow veg plants a lot faster.  It is loaded with mostly 6400K lights that have way more blue light than any 5000K.  Once little ones are big enough they go under the 400W.

 

LEDFinish05.jpg

 

To answer your original question, there's many ways to skin this cat.  CMH is the best of the HID world.

 

image.gif

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