Magician

Medical Cannabis

46 posts in this topic

8 hours ago, Unregistered said:

CMH is not the same as the older tech you have. It looks like 12" away from a 315W CMH will burn your plants regardless of airflow (well, an 8" fan blowing straight up through the plant at the fixture isn't enough to prevent it), and I had pretty much the same result with sprouts 6" away from T5HOs as I did 4' away from CMH (without the need to keep adjusting things as the plants grew). The 3 plants I've flowered under CMH all had excellent bud development right down to the soil, no light or fluffy bits at all, that's 3' plants 1.5' from the lamps.

 

There is nothing weird about HID K values, afaict. As lighting technology has progressed we've seen both an increase in intensity and a broadening of the output spectrum. (ignoring MV) HPS came out first and has an ~2700K color temp, then came MH with a wider range of color temps (3200K-5500K, 7200K), and now we have CMH which is more efficient and their color temp is mostly meaningless because all CMH lamps are full spectrum. ( <- that's the better bulb you need ;) )

 

Can I ask if I then need both Philips Mastercolour CDM-TP Elite MW 315/930 as well as 315/942 Blue Lamp, ?

thank you

 

 

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19 minutes ago, Magician said:

what do you think of my grow room, a work in progress

looks great, everything new and shiny, I hope that shelf is strong, holding those 2 buckets filled with water and hopefully later big plants. As you can read, everyone has slightly different ideas and preferences for everything, just treat your first grow as a learning experience, try not to worry about perfection, you are going to tailor it to your personal needs as you go along and get more experience. When mine started growing, I was checking them 20+ times a day lol. Now I have weaned myself down to about 6 on average.

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To be honest, I never away from it :)

thanx for the encouragment, shelf is strong enough, there is also a brick support in the centre.

I just wish I could speed it up a bit :)

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3 minutes ago, Magician said:

I just wish I could speed it up a bit

yeh I know what you are saying, This will definitely teach you patience, if you are not, and try and push it too much, the penalty is waiting even longer while the plant de stresses itself. As Unregistered said to me "If you don't know what normal is, you have nothing to gauge what you are doing, due to lack of experience". As you are doing DWC LabRat will keep you on the right track, I don't think there is much he hasn't tried and experimented with in DWC.  I have taken the easier route with organic soil, slightly slower but safer for me and my lack of patience, as its more forgiving of F.ck ups I think.

 

As an airbrush painter I have got used to watching paint dry. Watching a plant grow is not much different lol.

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8 hours ago, LabRat said:

That purple isn't sunburn.  It's even on the small leaves that would have been well shaded.  Lots of strains show a little purple near the end even if not a purple strain.

None of what you see there was shaded. The Kush wasn't new for me, and I'd recently harvested the main plant which didn't go purple even though temps were down to 60-65F at night. The rooted branches were fed better than the main plant, so I doubt it is a P deficiency either.

 

The two autoflower plants started leaking sap when the 8x T5HO was replaced with the 1x 315W CMH...

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2 hours ago, Magician said:

Can I ask if I then need both Philips Mastercolour CDM-TP Elite MW 315/930 as well as 315/942 Blue Lamp, ?

thank you

No, both lamps are full spectrum. The 930 (3000K color temp) also has an agro version which puts out a bit more UV (not sure if it is an open or enclosed fixture lamp), and one of them is a little more intense than the other, but the differences are so small that choosing them amounts to minor tweaks which may or may not make a difference depending on whose posts you read.

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On 25/06/2017 at 6:18 PM, LabRat said:

I don't use those but most that do either put the seeds right in or soak for 24 hours in water then put them in.

 

The light should be closer to keep the sprout from stretching up so much tho I've seen worse.  The smaller one looks pretty bad and it may just be a bad seed.

 

I shake my seeds in a pill jar lined with sandpaper for a full minute to scratch up the surface then plant directly into small pots of soilless mix that I have screened through a 1mm mesh same size as window screen.  As the sprouts come up I flick them around with a finger tip to toughen up the stems.  You may have to support that tall one with some wire or a straightened out paper clip if it wants to fall over.  The little one may grow better after a while.

 

SeedStart.jpg

 

Good luck!

 

:peace:

Hi L/Rat I hope I'm not taking advantage of your kindness,

pics were taken 7/7/17, worried a little, looking at the leaf you can see a dark patch to them, ?

should I be worried :(

plants just over 2wks old, under 2 tubes, cool white, temp is 74f, feeding them a 3rd of recommended strength, (very little daily)

the larger leaf plant, doesn't seem be effected, indecently this is the one with the seed problem at the beginning, the smaller one is the one I over fed.

many thx

 

DSC02041.JPG

DSC02040.JPG

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If the colours in the pictures look just like your plants do then I'd say they are hungry.  Boost up their feed a bit and see if they don't green up.

 

How many mls/L are you mixing your nutes for feeding and do you have a ppm or EC meter?  I would feed them about 300ppm of all three of the nutes.  I have the AN 3-part nutes and mixed up a liter to see how high the ppm goes when mixed 3-2-1, G-M-B, in 1L of RO water.  I got 550ppm on the Hanna scale or an EC of 1.1.  That might be a bit strong but they should take it.  I use syringes to get accurate measurements for small amounts like that and you can get them at the druggist or at most farm feed stores, vets or even at health food stores.  It's handy to have a long needle on them for getting into the juice too.  I got some blunt needles from an old ink cartridge refill kit but have bought some larger ones at the feed store too for my 30 and 60ml syringes.  Drug stores and vets usually have the 3ml ones for measuring medications.  Tell them you don't even want the needle if they are reluctant to sell you a syringe.  Can do without it.  I put plastic food grade tubing on a couple of the larger ones for sucking up samples from the tubs for testing.

 

What water are you using?  Tap or RO?  That can make a big difference if you have hard tap water or it's heavily chlorinated and you're not aerating it for 24 hours before using.  I aerate my RO water too just so I know it has as much dissolved oxygen, DO, as possible when I water them.

 

They look low on N in particular with the yellowing I see.  I would mix up a batch like I said and wash them through with that and see if that doesn't fix them right up.  Put the same mix into 1.5L of water to dilute it further to around 350ppm if you want.

 

Here's a handy chart you can print out if you want.

 

PPM-EC-CF.jpg

 

:peace:

 

 

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19 hours ago, LabRat said:

If the colours in the pictures look just like your plants do then I'd say they are hungry.  Boost up their feed a bit and see if they don't green up.

 

How many mls/L are you mixing your nutes for feeding and do you have a ppm or EC meter?  I would feed them about 300ppm of all three of the nutes.  I have the AN 3-part nutes and mixed up a liter to see how high the ppm goes when mixed 3-2-1, G-M-B, in 1L of RO water.  I got 550ppm on the Hanna scale or an EC of 1.1.  That might be a bit strong but they should take it.  I use syringes to get accurate measurements for small amounts like that and you can get them at the druggist or at most farm feed stores, vets or even at health food stores.  It's handy to have a long needle on them for getting into the juice too.  I got some blunt needles from an old ink cartridge refill kit but have bought some larger ones at the feed store too for my 30 and 60ml syringes.  Drug stores and vets usually have the 3ml ones for measuring medications.  Tell them you don't even want the needle if they are reluctant to sell you a syringe.  Can do without it.  I put plastic food grade tubing on a couple of the larger ones for sucking up samples from the tubs for testing.

 

What water are you using?  Tap or RO?  That can make a big difference if you have hard tap water or it's heavily chlorinated and you're not aerating it for 24 hours before using.  I aerate my RO water too just so I know it has as much dissolved oxygen, DO, as possible when I water them.

 

They look low on N in particular with the yellowing I see.  I would mix up a batch like I said and wash them through with that and see if that doesn't fix them right up.  Put the same mix into 1.5L of water to dilute it further to around 350ppm if you want.

 

Here's a handy chart you can print out if you want.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Hi LT, many thanx, in-fact I can t thank you enough, sorry for the delay in answering, I have these demanding grandchildren, they think I live for them :)

I tried the mix as you suggested, chk RO water reads 7ppm, using 1ltr of RO water, I then added 2mls of each bottle and it reads 557ppm PH 5.8 but it moves around to 6.1. pen might need adjusting, I then went onto again using 1.5ltrs of RO water and adding 2ml of each bottle 384ppm, PH 5.8 (ish), so 1st test identical results, 2nd using 1.5ltr I get 384ppm and you get 350ppm unsure if this is important.

So just to get this right in my head... use the 550ppm mix to wash them through.... how do I do this exactly, won't I be again over feeding them :blush:

excellent Idea re: the blunt needles, I struggled a bit to get the 2 mls, I used a pip thing eventually..

Thanx for the chart, and your help...appreciated.....

 

Quote

 

:peace:

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Magician said:

PH 5.8 but it moves around to 6.1. pen might need adjusting,

Just jiggle the PH pen about to get any trapped air around the glass bubble sensor out. Mine does the same, sometimes it will move a whole point before stabilizing. As for the rest I will let Lab advise. This is the reason I went totally organic, not having to measure anything, except to check the water PH is between 6-7 :)

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You are using pH perfect nutes are you not?  RO water has no real pH of it's own unless it's not very pure then it may show something different than 7 so don't test it alone. 

 

Put your pH pen away in some storage solution.  You don't need it.   I haven't checked my pH for about 3 years once I got the pH Perfect nutes.  That's one of the big advantages of using those nutes.  The drudgery of checking pH is gone!  Do NOT adjust the pH!  Trust the technology!

 

So did you actually feed them?  I may not of been clear enough but I was using the 3-2-1 ratio and that's what I recommend you use on the plants especially once they go into their net baskets in the pails.  You didn't need to do two mixes.  You could have made the 1L mix, tested it then added 0.5L of water and tested again.  When you first fill your DWC system just divide the total amount of water used by 1.5 then add your nutes at the 3-2-1 ratio of GMB using that number and you will have around 350ppm which is just about perfect for starting small plants/rooted clones.  Once they start showing good growth and have roots in the water you can add small amounts of the nutes in the same ratio to bring the ppm up to around 500ppm.  No need to dump out those nutes and start from fresh water.  They eat very little when they are small so you would be throwing out perfectly good nutes.  If you screw around with the pH you will be screwing around with your plants so leave it be.

 

You can just water them well with the 350ppm mix to get some feed into them.  Just squeeze the rockwool cubes a bit to get some of the nutes out so it's not sopping wet.  They should be sitting on something that allows them to drain too.  When you go to put them in their net pots you should carefully pull away as much as the RW you can or you may end up with stem rot.  They really should have stayed in the small rooters then gone into the pails from there.  I don't like those huge pots in the store bought pails.  5" ones would be plenty big enough.

 

I made a short tutorial at another forum years ago for starting the DWC part of the trip.  Might be a bit of help.  DWC How-To.

 

Never leave your pH pen in RO water for very long as it will leach the salts out of that glass ball and destroy the probe.  You should keep it sitting in storage solution between uses and that helps it stay in calibration too.  I use the storage sol'n and just add a little RO water once in a while as it dries out in the cap.  If you don't have storage sol'n then use a bit of your pH 7 calibration sol'n with a bit of tap water to keep it in between uses.  They will last for years if properly stored.  For longer term storage they can be put away dry then re-hydrated for at least 24 hours before using again to keep them in good shape.  You should have a little spray bottle with water to spray on the probe to rinse it after measuring nutes before it goes into the storage sol'n.  You shouldn't need to test nutes tho right? ;)

 

At least you get to see your grand kids.  I got 4 and haven't seen them in years.  #2 son's are in foster care still I believe as him and his ex-GF are both tweakers and #1 son's are being held captive by their psycho-bitch mother and I couldn't see them when I was out there last summer.  Likely won't see them when I go out again in August.  I live a 20 hour drive from them all so can't scoot out there to visit often.

 

Ask any questions you need to.  Makes me look bad if you screw it up. :)

 

:peace:

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3 hours ago, LabRat said:

You are using pH perfect nutes are you not?  RO water has no real pH of it's own unless it's not very pure then it may show something different than 7 so don't test it alone. 

 

Put your pH pen away in some storage solution.  You don't need it.   I haven't checked my pH for about 3 years once I got the pH Perfect nutes.  That's one of the big advantages of using those nutes.  The drudgery of checking pH is gone!  Do NOT adjust the pH!  Trust the technology!

 

So did you actually feed them?  I may not of been clear enough but I was using the 3-2-1 ratio and that's what I recommend you use on the plants especially once they go into their net baskets in the pails.  You didn't need to do two mixes.  You could have made the 1L mix, tested it then added 0.5L of water and tested again.  When you first fill your DWC system just divide the total amount of water used by 1.5 then add your nutes at the 3-2-1 ratio of GMB using that number and you will have around 350ppm which is just about perfect for starting small plants/rooted clones.  Once they start showing good growth and have roots in the water you can add small amounts of the nutes in the same ratio to bring the ppm up to around 500ppm.  No need to dump out those nutes and start from fresh water.  They eat very little when they are small so you would be throwing out perfectly good nutes.  If you screw around with the pH you will be screwing around with your plants so leave it be.

 

You can just water them well with the 350ppm mix to get some feed into them.  Just squeeze the rockwool cubes a bit to get some of the nutes out so it's not sopping wet.  They should be sitting on something that allows them to drain too.  When you go to put them in their net pots you should carefully pull away as much as the RW you can or you may end up with stem rot.  They really should have stayed in the small rooters then gone into the pails from there.  I don't like those huge pots in the store bought pails.  5" ones would be plenty big enough.

 

I made a short tutorial at another forum years ago for starting the DWC part of the trip.  Might be a bit of help.  DWC How-To.

 

Never leave your pH pen in RO water for very long as it will leach the salts out of that glass ball and destroy the probe.  You should keep it sitting in storage solution between uses and that helps it stay in calibration too.  I use the storage sol'n and just add a little RO water once in a while as it dries out in the cap.  If you don't have storage sol'n then use a bit of your pH 7 calibration sol'n with a bit of tap water to keep it in between uses.  They will last for years if properly stored.  For longer term storage they can be put away dry then re-hydrated for at least 24 hours before using again to keep them in good shape.  You should have a little spray bottle with water to spray on the probe to rinse it after measuring nutes before it goes into the storage sol'n.  You shouldn't need to test nutes tho right? ;)

 

At least you get to see your grand kids.  I got 4 and haven't seen them in years.  #2 son's are in foster care still I believe as him and his ex-GF are both tweakers and #1 son's are being held captive by their psycho-bitch mother and I couldn't see them when I was out there last summer.  Likely won't see them when I go out again in August.  I live a 20 hour drive from them all so can't scoot out there to visit often.

 

Ask any questions you need to.  Makes me look bad if you screw it up. :)

 

Hi LR,

You might say “we have a right yin here” but unsure what you mean by “3-2-1 ratio:)

I did feed them and was very generous with the 350ppm solution, but not this 3.2.1. ratio.........

I have bought Advanced Nutes PH perfect.

My PH pen gave up the ghost this afternoon :( but glad to hear I'm not in a hurry to replace it, the pen was abused going by what you said about looking after it, I didn't.

LR... can I ask when is it time to put the plants into DWC ?

I bought the DWC system, the air pump was very poor, had to replace.

 

I am sorry to hear about your grand kids, about 5 yrs ago, my daughter/son-inlaw marriage was touch and go, and we (gran & granddad) thought the worse re: the grand-kids, but no, they seem to be doing well now.

Some parents don't understand that there not just denying the grand-dad seeing his grand-kids, it's also her denying her kids a grand-dad.

Keep trying LR, for the little I know your the good guy, just look at the help your giving..

Again many thanx.

will look at your tutorial ......

3 hours ago, LabRat said:

 

:peace:

 

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6 minutes ago, Magician said:

 

Hi LR,

You might say “we have a right yin here” but unsure what you mean by “3-2-1 ratio:)

I did feed them and was very generous with the 350ppm solution, but not this 3.2.1. ratio.........

I have bought Advanced Nutes PH perfect.

My PH pen gave up the ghost this afternoon :( but glad to hear I'm not in a hurry to replace it, the pen was abused going by what you said about looking after it, I didn't.

LR... can I ask when is it time to put the plants into DWC ?

I bought the DWC system, the air pump was very poor, had to replace.

 

I am sorry to hear about your grand kids, about 5 yrs ago, my daughter/son-inlaw marriage was touch and go, and we (gran & granddad) thought the worse re: the grand-kids, but no, they seem to be doing well now.

Some parents don't understand that there not just denying the grand-dad seeing his grand-kids, it's also her denying her kids a grand-dad.

Keep trying LR, for the little I know your the good guy, just look at the help your giving..

Again many thanx.

will look at your tutorial ......

 

 

Ratios are the amount of each nute you use in relation to the others and generally expressed for 3-part nutes in the order of Grow, Micro and Bloom or GMB.  You should always add the Micro to the water first then either the G or B after.  Even tho those nutes you mixed for your testing were 2mls of each it is still a 1-1-1 ratio as they were all the same amount.

 

With a 3-2-1 ratio you are using 3mls of Grow, 2mls of Micro and 1ml of Bloom.  If you gave then 6mls G, 4mls M and 2mls B the sol'n would be twice as strong but still a 3-2-1 ratio.  I think the bottles of the nutes explain that a bit on the back or at least they did on the older ones.  The plants need lots of N during the veg period and through the approx. 3 week stretch when they first start flowering then their need for N drops off a lot and too much N inhibits flowering then you end up with much smaller buds.  After the stretch I'm using a 0-1-2 ratio with Big Bud tho I may go with 1-1-2 if I see early yellowing on the lower leaves.  If they are starting to yellow around week 6 and it's not too rapid then I figure I have it just right for an 8 week plant. (8 weeks to finish flowering from the time they get flipped to 12/12 not 8 weeks from sprouting).  In general the stretch is 40% of the flowering time and 60% is just stacking on flowers and fattening up the buds into colas.

 

They can go into the DWC any time now but start them under the big light with it about 2' above the plants so they don't get too much light at first which could burn them  Every few days lower it a couple of inches until it's maybe 18" or even a foot above once they are growing fast.  Let the light shine on the back of your hand held at the level of the tops and if it's just comfortably warm on your hand it should be fine for the plants.  I use an infrared thermometer to check the leaf temp at the tops and if 80F or less it's good to go.  I don't think you can get as close with the CMH as I can with my HPS lights and the design of your reflector looks like it focuses the light in a smaller footprint than the reflectors I use too which means the light needs to be higher up.

 

I really loved both my grandpas and have never had any kind of relationship with any of my grand kids.  Try to go out every spring and catch a nice trout on my grandpa's old fly rod but no trout up here close by. :(

 

:peace:

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On 08/07/2017 at 11:44 PM, LabRat said:

 

Ratios are the amount of each nute you use in relation to the others and generally expressed for 3-part nutes in the order of Grow, Micro and Bloom or GMB.  You should always add the Micro to the water first then either the G or B after.  Even tho those nutes you mixed for your testing were 2mls of each it is still a 1-1-1 ratio as they were all the same amount.

 

With a 3-2-1 ratio you are using 3mls of Grow, 2mls of Micro and 1ml of Bloom.  If you gave then 6mls G, 4mls M and 2mls B the sol'n would be twice as strong but still a 3-2-1 ratio.  I think the bottles of the nutes explain that a bit on the back or at least they did on the older ones.  The plants need lots of N during the veg period and through the approx. 3 week stretch when they first start flowering then their need for N drops off a lot and too much N inhibits flowering then you end up with much smaller buds.  After the stretch I'm using a 0-1-2 ratio with Big Bud tho I may go with 1-1-2 if I see early yellowing on the lower leaves.  If they are starting to yellow around week 6 and it's not too rapid then I figure I have it just right for an 8 week plant. (8 weeks to finish flowering from the time they get flipped to 12/12 not 8 weeks from sprouting).  In general the stretch is 40% of the flowering time and 60% is just stacking on flowers and fattening up the buds into colas.

 

They can go into the DWC any time now but start them under the big light with it about 2' above the plants so they don't get too much light at first which could burn them  Every few days lower it a couple of inches until it's maybe 18" or even a foot above once they are growing fast.  Let the light shine on the back of your hand held at the level of the tops and if it's just comfortably warm on your hand it should be fine for the plants.  I use an infrared thermometer to check the leaf temp at the tops and if 80F or less it's good to go.  I don't think you can get as close with the CMH as I can with my HPS lights and the design of your reflector looks like it focuses the light in a smaller footprint than the reflectors I use too which means the light needs to be higher up.

 

I really loved both my grandpas and have never had any kind of relationship with any of my grand kids.  Try to go out every spring and catch a nice trout on my grandpa's old fly rod but no trout up here close by. :(

 

:peace:

Hi L/R, Re: the ratio, I hadn't a clue. 3.2.1.

I was using the

http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutrient-calculator/

which is completely wrong, now that I have mixed using 3.2.1. ratio, I have to say it took me a bit of trial and error to mix 15ltrs at 350ppm I got roughly 380ppm would this be ok ?

Can I ask what's the method of calculating, say 15ltrs, with a ratio 3.2.1.

I went low/mild mix then added 3,2,1 mls at a time and it did indeed rise, but I went a bit over-board 380ppm.

Added them to DWC system, I remove almost all the rock wool, 1 weak plant had no roots into rock wool at all, the better looking one had a few.

L/R how do I know if the plants are getting fed ? What I mean is, the water level in the dwc is just touching the bottom of basket (15ltrs), when air pump is on there is allot of micro bubbles, when I placed plant into basket it's about 3” “roughly speaking” from the bottom of basket, sitting in red clay pebbles.

Light is about 18” away from plant, and the light is at 165w setting.

I have bought a temp thing you point at your leaf and you get the temp, so again thanx for the tip.

Untitled.thumb.png.57d422090dd397db6c13a970e1df3fad.png

Bet all you wanted to do was pass on the moments/memory's to your grand-kids, it's so sad when your not allowed to offer what you know, you remember fishing many years after the event, and remembered with fondness, that's all we have to offer now, is memories, no fault of your own, I am sorry........

My grand-kids are female, bossy, no-it-all's :)

Would have been nice to have a guy, fishing wasn't my thing but diving was my love.

Thank You...  pics attached

DSC02043.JPG

DSC02042.JPG

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380 should be fine.  You are going to want to draw out some nutes and feed it through the hydroton at the top to keep the roots moist until they start showing out the bottom of the pots.  I use my 60cc syringe to do that but a turkey baster works well and they're pretty cheap.  I would cut an inspection hole in the lids on those pails so you can draw out samples and add nutes or water when needed.  Do you have to lift the lids to do any of that?  Those two are separate from each other aren't they?

 

They should start to get greener real soon.

 

That nute calculator is total crap.  I've written them about it but never heard back.  I've never followed it.  With DWC I go by the ppm.  300 - 400 to start small plants then bump up to around 600 once they have roots and are showing some new growth then increasing as the growth gets more vigorous.  I'm pretty sure if you fed like they say you would burn the plants badly.  And they want you to toss out those nutes every week and mix up fresh ones.  How much do you think those little plants will eat in a week?  Hardly anything at all so changing every week is like tossing your cash down the drain.

 

With 15 liters you just multiply each one by 15 to know how much of each to use to get around the 380ppm you got using 1L.  If you wanted double that ppm then you would multiply by 30.  To be precise you could put 1ml of each into a liter of water to see how much the ppm rises then you know exactly how much of each to use to go up maybe 100ppm and still use the same ratio but I always guesstimate it and get pretty close to what I'm aiming for.  Like put in one ml of Micro, mix well and test ppm.  Then add 1ml of Grow to the same sol'n and check that then the same for the Bloom.

 

For you with 15L knowing that 3-2-1mls/L get you almost 400 ppm and if you wanted to go up another 100 then you would just divide by 4 each amount what you would give them to get the 380.  So 3mls Grow × 15L is 45ml / 4 = 11.25ml.  Same with the others.  2mls Micro × 15L / 4 = 7.5 then 1ml Bloom × 15L / 4 = 3.75.  Adding those amounts will increase the nutes by 100 or very close to it.  It really doesn't have to be dead on so I just figure out how much to add in my head and it's close enough.

 

Start feeding them thru the pots right away a couple times a day so the roots don't dry out.  Should be no more than a few days but will likely take longer with the runt.

 

The water level should be about an inch below the net pots once the roots are out of the pots.

 

:peace:

 

 

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On 11/07/2017 at 7:39 PM, LabRat said:

380 should be fine.  You are going to want to draw out some nutes and feed it through the hydroton at the top to keep the roots moist until they start showing out the bottom of the pots.  I use my 60cc syringe to do that but a turkey baster works well and they're pretty cheap.  I would cut an inspection hole in the lids on those pails so you can draw out samples and add nutes or water when needed.  Do you have to lift the lids to do any of that?  Those two are separate from each other aren't they?

 

They should start to get greener real soon.

 

That nute calculator is total crap.  I've written them about it but never heard back.  I've never followed it.  With DWC I go by the ppm.  300 - 400 to start small plants then bump up to around 600 once they have roots and are showing some new growth then increasing as the growth gets more vigorous.  I'm pretty sure if you fed like they say you would burn the plants badly.  And they want you to toss out those nutes every week and mix up fresh ones.  How much do you think those little plants will eat in a week?  Hardly anything at all so changing every week is like tossing your cash down the drain.

 

With 15 liters you just multiply each one by 15 to know how much of each to use to get around the 380ppm you got using 1L.  If you wanted double that ppm then you would multiply by 30.  To be precise you could put 1ml of each into a liter of water to see how much the ppm rises then you know exactly how much of each to use to go up maybe 100ppm and still use the same ratio but I always guesstimate it and get pretty close to what I'm aiming for.  Like put in one ml of Micro, mix well and test ppm.  Then add 1ml of Grow to the same sol'n and check that then the same for the Bloom.

 

For you with 15L knowing that 3-2-1mls/L get you almost 400 ppm and if you wanted to go up another 100 then you would just divide by 4 each amount what you would give them to get the 380.  So 3mls Grow × 15L is 45ml / 4 = 11.25ml.  Same with the others.  2mls Micro × 15L / 4 = 7.5 then 1ml Bloom × 15L / 4 = 3.75.  Adding those amounts will increase the nutes by 100 or very close to it.  It really doesn't have to be dead on so I just figure out how much to add in my head and it's close enough.

 

Start feeding them thru the pots right away a couple times a day so the roots don't dry out.  Should be no more than a few days but will likely take longer with the runt.

 

The water level should be about an inch below the net pots once the roots are out of the pots.

 

:peace:

 

 

Hi L/R I thought I would give you a bit of a break from my incessant questioning :)

 

Do you have to lift the lids to do any of that?  Those two are separate from each other aren't they?

 

The 2 pails are separate, how ever my nute temp is 75f, I think it's the light at 18” from the plant, I am waiting on coke bottles to freeze will toss these in with the nutes, to cool them down a bit.

 

I knew there was something up re: the A N calculator, it was so far from what you were saying, very much appreciated the 3,2,1, method and how to calculate, it all seems to you very easy, but I am over thinking everything at the moment. :)

Using 60ml syringe to feed them, I cut a hole in the top of both pail lids, then used rubber bungs (homebrew) to seal the hole when not in use.

 

What you think about T5 tubes rack of 4 tubes, less heat it reads, so it might help the nute temp problem, just until they have grown a bit and the main light can be lifted higher.

If the frozen water bottles does the trick then the T5 question is irrelevant.

However thought I would ask your opinion on the matter.

 

Again, Many Thx

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You won't get the growth rates under the T-5s that you will under the CMH but if it will help with temps then could be better for now.  75 is a tad too warm for sure so I would make sure to get some food-grade peroxide from a hydro or health food store in case you run into root problems.  A lot of guys use beneficial bacteria to help prevent rot but I've seen a lot it didn't help too and have never used it myself.  Should time applications for 24 hours after adding any fresh nutes and use 2x a week for prevention.  With the 35% I used 0.5ml/L and never had problems.  The only time I got root rot was when I used clones that had been rooted in real dirt and I figure the bacteria that caused it came from the dirt.  I upped the dose to 2ml/L every 2nd day and beat it back both times with minimal damage to the roots that grew back fine.  I had temps up to 80 back then,

 

Add some salt to the pop bottles then they get colder and stay frozen longer.  A Tbsp in a 500ml bottle would do it.  Also wrap the pails in something to insulate them.  A couple of layers of that silver bubble-wrap insulation would work good and won't look too bad if put on neatly and maybe secured with silver duct tape.  A couple of pieces of styrofoam insulation for the pails to sit on would help too.

 

Once the plants have grown up a bit they should shade the tops of the pails and then the CMH won't heat things up but keep it high at first to prevent burn when going to a more powerful light like you did with the little ones.  Another month and it should start cooling off.  What are the air temps in the room?  Insulated pails will help stop them absorbing heat from the air too.

 

:peace:

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On 15/07/2017 at 7:50 PM, LabRat said:

You won't get the growth rates under the T-5s that you will under the CMH but if it will help with temps then could be better for now.  75 is a tad too warm for sure so I would make sure to get some food-grade peroxide from a hydro or health food store in case you run into root problems.  A lot of guys use beneficial bacteria to help prevent rot but I've seen a lot it didn't help too and have never used it myself.  Should time applications for 24 hours after adding any fresh nutes and use 2x a week for prevention.  With the 35% I used 0.5ml/L and never had problems.  The only time I got root rot was when I used clones that had been rooted in real dirt and I figure the bacteria that caused it came from the dirt.  I upped the dose to 2ml/L every 2nd day and beat it back both times with minimal damage to the roots that grew back fine.  I had temps up to 80 back then,

 

Add some salt to the pop bottles then they get colder and stay frozen longer.  A Tbsp in a 500ml bottle would do it.  Also wrap the pails in something to insulate them.  A couple of layers of that silver bubble-wrap insulation would work good and won't look too bad if put on neatly and maybe secured with silver duct tape.  A couple of pieces of styrofoam insulation for the pails to sit on would help too.

 

Once the plants have grown up a bit they should shade the tops of the pails and then the CMH won't heat things up but keep it high at first to prevent burn when going to a more powerful light like you did with the little ones.  Another month and it should start cooling off.  What are the air temps in the room?  Insulated pails will help stop them absorbing heat from the air too.

 

:peace:

Hi L-R, I bought a T5, and this has reduced the temps in the nutes to around the 70 to 72f mark, I added a large reflector over both pots as well, and increased the extraction, grow-room temps are around 75f, with nutes around the 70f mark.

Today I serviced the DWC 1st time, it has been about 2wks, I added R/O water brought the levels up to around an inch below the pots, reading are

Small plant = 380ppm temp 71f, added only R/O water no nutes

large good looking babe :) 400ppm 71f added only R/O water no nutes

Leaf Temp is 77f, grow-room is 74f

Come Tuesday 25th july both are 4wks old.

Have attached a few pics, the gorgeous one has some cracking roots, the runt has 2.

Have raised the small plant up with wood so both are at the same height.

I know you will see all the mistakes in the pic's :( , but in my defence it's my 1st grow. :)

Can I assume the bigger they get the less prone to death they become, I.E. if I get it a bit wrong, they will live to tell the tale.

 

Can I ask about the PPM, as the plants grow, do I increase the nute strength, and if so what is my ceiling. And what are the strength steps.

Many thanx, thanx for your patience

5.PNG

6.PNG

2.PNG

1.PNG

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Looking a lot better now Magician. Yeh the bigger they get the harder they are to kill, if you screw up. The penalty is usually slower growth rather than death but with DWC they react a lot faster to mistakes.

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Looking good for now and considering the lower light level I'd keep them at the same ppm for now.  They are barely eating up any nutes at this stage so what's in there will do for a while yet.   I assume that the air that goes into the grow area is from your house so the nute temps won't go lower unless cooler air can be supplied or a chiller is employed but it's not too bad.  65 would be better and if we used a scale that looked like a traffic light you're in the amber zone with red starting around 75 and green being 64 - 69.

 

Their colour is certainly looking a lot better and should get even greener as they get more roots going.  Really dark green can mean too much N so we don't want that. :)

 

:peace:

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