Magician

Medical Cannabis

46 posts in this topic

Hi Guys, have just registered, so a hi and hello.

a week ago I placed 2 seeds into a dish with kitchen roll (sandwich seeds) wet

30hrs later they cracked, have to say I was elated, first time.

I then used "Root Riot" cube things, but when I planted them into this, a root was exposed to the light,

and it's almost dead.

I have never did this before, so newbie, but nothing ventured nothing gained, strictly for medical reasons.

I think I should have placed the seeds right in to the cubes, am I right is assuming this ?

planted into cube on the 20th june I placed them into the kitchen roll on the 18th June,

any tips would be very much appreciated, have run the 2 tubes 24hrs no night rest. although what I read " it's ok for 24hrs" then read "no it's not ok". :( "

Pic below, is this looking ok ? the other is dead.

pic below 594fd4085122c_Plantedseed18thpictoday25thJune.thumb.JPG.4320ae3ee12a687194a54e2ced4ded15.JPG

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I don't use those but most that do either put the seeds right in or soak for 24 hours in water then put them in.

 

The light should be closer to keep the sprout from stretching up so much tho I've seen worse.  The smaller one looks pretty bad and it may just be a bad seed.

 

I shake my seeds in a pill jar lined with sandpaper for a full minute to scratch up the surface then plant directly into small pots of soilless mix that I have screened through a 1mm mesh same size as window screen.  As the sprouts come up I flick them around with a finger tip to toughen up the stems.  You may have to support that tall one with some wire or a straightened out paper clip if it wants to fall over.  The little one may grow better after a while.

 

SeedStart.jpg

 

Good luck!

 

:peace:

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19 hours ago, LabRat said:

Thnx LabRat, classic advice, scuffing the seeds, is a great idea,

can I ask, that single cracking plant in the pic, how old is that ?

what bulb are you using, temp etc, sorry if I am being a little forward, but it does look a cracker. :)

 

 

 

 

 soak for 24 hours in water then put them in.

The light should be closer to keep the sprout from stretching up so much

 

I shake my seeds in a pill jar lined with sandpaper for a full minute to scratch up the surface then plant directly into small pots of soilless mix that I have screened through a 1mm mesh same size as window screen.  As the sprouts come up I flick them around with a finger tip to toughen up the stems.  You may have to support that tall one with some wire or a straightened out paper clip if it wants to fall over.  The little one may grow better after a while.

 

 

19 hours ago, LabRat said:

 

SeedStart.jpg

 

Good luck!

 

:peace:

 

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Hi Magician,

28 minutes ago, Magician said:

classic advice

 

26 minutes ago, Magician said:

cracking plant

Your from the UK, judging from the expressions you use.

 

30 minutes ago, Magician said:

how old is that ?

Somewhere around 2-3 weeks I would guess.

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4 hours ago, Shadey said:

Hi Magician,

 

Your from the UK, judging from the expressions you use.

 

Somewhere around 2-3 weeks I would guess.

 

Scotland, have been chk-n yourt links, wow, I suffer from Depression and Anxiety, sever Arthritis, throw in D.I.D.

so my interest is in pain killer and well as a spiritual/mental lift, the pills I'm on now are a joke.

Re: 2-3wks old, I hope my plant looks as good.

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1 hour ago, Magician said:

Scotland,

Sorry didn't mean to insult you lol. My wife is Scottish, from a little Village called Edzell just across the A90 from Brechin, half way between Dundee and Aberdeen, I am a shandy drinking, southern poofta lol. We emigrated to Canada 12 years ago, best thing we ever did. East coast here is just like west coast of Scotland, probably why they called it Nova Scotia lol, except more lakes, and less people, if you can believe it.

 

For pain get a high CBD/oil producing strain if you can, and what ever level of THC for a good distraction/spiritual lift you can handle, and mix them up in use, it keeps the effects fresh. CBD if I vape it, puts me to sleep, which is good, but the CBD oil, which I have just started trying doesn't, just kills the inflammation and pain, much better than any Nsaid without horrible side effects, and I can use it during the day. Mr Rat suffers from depression, so he will probably give you more advice on that side if you want it.  As for D.I.D, can you communicate with the rest of your group at all? They may have objections to healing and becoming one again.

 

I tend see the funny side to life, even when its not so nice, so I will apologize in advance if I cause offense from being insensitive. What happens after you grow a huge load of weed and you wake up and one of the group has sold it all before you can use it, or even reports you to the police. As a psychoanalyst I have seen some strange things happen.

 

For grow info just start reading and learning as much as you can on here, its helped me tremendously, in lots of ways, and don't be frightened to ask questions, lots of very, very, knowledgeable people here, that are more than willing to help out.

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Thx for the info, alway nice to run into a fellow scot, I lived in Alberta for awhile, a huge country, and as you say less people.

 

Re: D.I.D.. none taken, there are degree's of D.I.D.. thankfully I only slightly suffer from it.

 

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I'm of Scottish descent as well.  And ginger to boot. :)

 

That single plant up there is a couple weeks old I think.  It's a pic from a few years ago.  They're under 23W - 6500K CFLs

 

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS. I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more.  Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here.  No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as some are 50+ megs. They got lots.  Enjoy.

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3 hours ago, LabRat said:

And ginger to boot. :)

No wonder you suffer from depression  ;)

 

18 hours ago, Magician said:

Re: 2-3wks old, I hope my plant looks as good

when you put it in a pot shortly, sit it down inside so you can back fill half way up that stem to give it some support, and dont water to much or it will damp off, the stalk will suck in and it will collapse an die, looking like it needs more water. A very common mistake for new growers, which I made last year. Probably what happened to your other one.

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11 hours ago, LabRat said:

I'm of Scottish descent as well.  And ginger to boot. :)

 

That single plant up there is a couple weeks old I think.  It's a pic from a few years ago.  They're under 23W - 6500K CFLs

 

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS. I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more.  Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here.  No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as some are 50+ megs. They got lots.  Enjoy.

 

Many thanx for the link with the PDF, vast amount of info, I think I have over watered my wee cherub, it's leaves are drooping a bit, anything I can do ?

ginger hair, you cant beat it.............

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3 hours ago, Magician said:

I think I have over watered my wee cherub, it's leaves are drooping a bit, anything I can do ?

yes, just let it dry out, try and give it a gentle breeze and some warmth, off the top of my head, I think the best temps for seedlings is between 80-85, it will help the water evaporate and reduce the damping off effect. The roots need oxygen so when you over water it suffocates the plant. Hopefully it will be able to start breathing again before it expires. Dont give up on it, they can be fairly bomb proof.

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8 minutes ago, Shadey said:

yes, just let it dry out, try and give it a gentle breeze and some warmth, off the top of my head, I think the best temps for seedlings is between 75-85, it will help the water evaporate and reduce the damping off effect. The roots need oxygen so when you over water it suffocates the plant. Hopefully it will be able to start breathing again before it expires. Dont give up on it, they can be fairly bomb proof.

You can remove soggy soil from the container to speed things up.

 

I usually take away from the sides because the roots haven't gotten that far in a big way yet (it is always seedlings I do this to ;) ), and you can get a big increase in surface area - which will get rid of excess moisture faster than the roots.

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I am so impressed with watering from the base of the plant now, it just seems to get it perfect without having to try. I am going to employ it from start to finish now.

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Hi Guys, I think I over watered 1 of 2 my plants, leaf drooped badly, the other one was bad from the start, unsure what happened to it. (1st time grower) 11 days old

anyhoo thought I might up-date you, with a couple of pics, and thanx to your kind help I think I have saved both.

the one with the sort of burnt leave or half brown, plant number (1) was the good plant from the start, but I over watered and it had droop.

the other was the one that wasn't doing so good from the start, plant number (2),  see pics a few days ago, 1.thumb.JPG.7d03decb399c1fe9eeedf693dd76aaf6.JPGjust look at her now though

I noticed roots coming out of the cube side, so I thought I would place cubes into rockwool, I have made up a mild nutrient solution, i.e half the recommened strength, and I feed very carefully now.

My tube lights are about 8" from the plants ?

again many thanx for your help, chk out my pics :)   

 

2.JPG

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No need to feed for the first 2 weeks or you can burn the roots with nutes. Just water is all you need they have everything stored in the first 2 little leaves..It is certainly looking a lot better, well done, good rescue. Just keep everything at a, less is more level, you can always add if its not enough but its a pain in the donkey if you give them to much, and need to lower things. You have back filled to strengthen the stalk which is good.

Your lights, what is the wattage and Kelvin range? You could probably move them closer to the plant, to avoid them stretching to much.

 

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Hi Shadey, thanx for the heads-up Re: the nutes

 

what is the wattage and Kelvin range?

2 x 2ft F18w (18w) T8 Triphosphor Fluorescent Tube Colour: 840 Cool White [4000k]... ?  

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37 minutes ago, Magician said:

2 x 2ft F18w (18w) T8 Triphosphor Fluorescent Tube Colour: 840 Cool White [4000k]... ?  

Ok most people use T5 H fluorescent tubes which run hotter than the normal. You really should have 6000-6500K  for vegging, which is a T5. The K stands for the kelvin range of the light spectrum and the more watts they use, the more light and heat they produce. You could put those lights at 2-3 inches above your plants to stop them stretching too much. If the back of your hand can handle the heat at that distance your plants should as well.

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Regarding soggy plants:  Can set the pots on a fluffy face cloth or towel to wick the moisture out of them.

 

Regarding feeding seedlings:  Two weeks or even more without feeding is fine for sprouts started in real soil that has some natural nutes in it but in rooters and/or rockwool there is no nutes at all so they need something or they are starving from the start.  1/4 strength is the most I would start with but it depends on how strong the nutes themselves are.  A tsp/L of 5-5-5 would likely be OK but a tsp/L of 20-20-20 would probably fry them.  Seaweed ferts are great stuff to start babies with and you'd have to OD the crap out them to burn the plants.

 

Cool white should be more like 6500K Magician.  Warm white are around 2700K for flowering but you can't really get great buds under fluoros.  HID lights are best for that followed by LEDs especially the newer COB LEDs a lot of people are using now.  Those little fluoros you have are good enough to start seedlings and clones with but you're going to need a lot more than that to get any decent smoke.

 

:peace:

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4 hours ago, LabRat said:

Regarding soggy plants:  Can set the pots on a fluffy face cloth or towel to wick the moisture out of them.

 

Regarding feeding seedlings:  Two weeks or even more without feeding is fine for sprouts started in real soil that has some natural nutes in it but in rooters and/or rockwool there is no nutes at all so they need something or they are starving from the start.  1/4 strength is the most I would start with but it depends on how strong the nutes themselves are.  A tsp/L of 5-5-5 would likely be OK but a tsp/L of 20-20-20 would probably fry them.  Seaweed ferts are great stuff to start babies with and you'd have to OD the crap out them to burn the plants.

 

Cool white should be more like 6500K Magician.  Warm white are around 2700K for flowering but you can't really get great buds under fluoros.  HID lights are best for that followed by LEDs especially the newer COB LEDs a lot of people are using now.  Those little fluoros you have are good enough to start seedlings and clones with but you're going to need a lot more than that to get any decent smoke.

 

:peace:

Thanx for this, it's very much appreciated, I am using Advanced Nutrients, PH perfect, I think about half strength or a little weaker,

The lights, I thought I had bought the correct tubes they said cool white, now I know better, looking for a replacement, I planned to use the tubes until I can figure when to place the plants into a DWC set-up, I bought a Dimlux Ceramic MH 315/942 Blue lamp, but as I said unsure when to actually place them under it, the lights can be switched to a lower wattage setting.

My growroom is I think pretty good, based only on what I know at this time, will add some pic's later today..

Again many thanx for your advise.

my wee cherubs are looking great...

 

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5 hours ago, Shadey said:

Ok most people use T5 H fluorescent tubes which run hotter than the normal. You really should have 6000-6500K  for vegging, which is a T5. The K stands for the kelvin range of the light spectrum and the more watts they use, the more light and heat they produce.

not really...

 

The "K" refers to an absolute temperature given in "kelvins", the spectrum associated with a particular "K" is that of a "black-body radiator" at that temperature. When lamp manufacturers refer to "color temperature in K", they are saying that the apparent color of the lamp is similar to the peak wavelength(s) of light given off by a black-body at that temperature - not that it has the same spectrum. If you want to know what the spectrum of wavelengths given off by a lamp is you will need to look at the data for that specific lamp, because the spectrum you get is determined by factors that have nothing to do with "K" and will vary from mfg to mfg. Two lamps with the same color temperature (K), from different manufacturers, will have a different output spectrum.

 

Lamp manufacturers list a color temperature for the benefit of Architects and Designers, because they care about the apparent color of a lamp messing with the aesthetics of the space.

 

Pot growers ended up using color temperature because back in stone-age of indoor pot growing (a few decades ago), when the MH lamps came along, they needed a way to distinguish between them and the HPS they had been using during the discussion about when/where/if they should be used. I'm guessing that color temp caught on because it was both convenient, and sounded more science-y - since black-body radiation and apparent colors have nothing to do with providing plants with the wavelengths of light they can use! In that situation, HPS and/or MH: 2700K is the apparent color temperature of standard HPS lamps, 4000K is that of MH lamps, but the reason you would want to use either is because you may not be getting enough energy across the full spectrum if you don't, not because of any properties of "2700K" or "4000K".

 

Nowadays, you should really only be concerned with the "K" attached to a lamp if you are using the "stone-age" HID tech, standard HPS and MH. Modern lighting systems suitable for growing plants, both HID and fluorescent, have lamps which put out enough energy across the entire visible spectrum that you do not need to worry about getting enough blue light during flowering like you would if you were running std HPS. Your main concern now is getting enough intensity and sources to grow them as big'n'tall as you want or to sneak/blast through foliage.

 

Wanting a specific color temperature or mix during vegging and flowering is a holdover from a time when the typical available light sources were unable to provide all the wavelengths of light a plant could use. That is not the case today unless you want it to be. So, for a new home grower sized installation: use T5HO because it is the most efficient fluorescent lamp design and you do not need good growth further than ~2' from the lamps (perfect for seedlings and cuttings); use CMH because it is the most efficient HID source and get good growth from 4-5' away from the lamps; use LED because it is the most efficient and you can afford it, but be careful that you are getting a full spectrum unit and not one intended for supplementing HPS grows.

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4 to 5 feet away for CMH is way too far for vegging plants past the seedling stage tho. To far away for seedlings too but I never use the big lights on sprouts.  I run my 1000W HIDs 18 - 24" stationary and a foot away on the light rail.  The 400s can be as close as 8" as long as there is good air flow between the light and the tops.  Weird about the K temp for HIDs.  My old MH bulb is only 3200K but this cheapo PlantMax one I got is 7200K.  Lots of blue but almost no red at all.  Need a better bulb I think.

 

Cool whites should be fine for your seedlings until they have a few nodes on them Magician.  Then I'd start using the CMH from about 2 feet away and lower it a few inches every three days until about a foot above them.  They should love that.

 

How do you plan to grow them as they go along?  I never use RW for growing so wondering what your plans are for them.

 

:peace:

 

 

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46 minutes ago, LabRat said:

4 to 5 feet away for CMH is way too far for vegging plants past the seedling stage tho. To far away for seedlings too but I never use the big lights on sprouts.  I run my 1000W HIDs 18 - 24" stationary and a foot away on the light rail.  The 400s can be as close as 8" as long as there is good air flow between the light and the tops.  Weird about the K temp for HIDs.  My old MH bulb is only 3200K but this cheapo PlantMax one I got is 7200K.  Lots of blue but almost no red at all.  Need a better bulb I think.

CMH is not the same as the older tech you have. It looks like 12" away from a 315W CMH will burn your plants regardless of airflow (well, an 8" fan blowing straight up through the plant at the fixture isn't enough to prevent it), and I had pretty much the same result with sprouts 6" away from T5HOs as I did 4' away from CMH (without the need to keep adjusting things as the plants grew). The 3 plants I've flowered under CMH all had excellent bud development right down to the soil, no light or fluffy bits at all, that's 3' plants 1.5' from the lamps.

 

There is nothing weird about HID K values, afaict. As lighting technology has progressed we've seen both an increase in intensity and a broadening of the output spectrum. (ignoring MV) HPS came out first and has an ~2700K color temp, then came MH with a wider range of color temps (3200K-5500K, 7200K), and now we have CMH which is more efficient and their color temp is mostly meaningless because all CMH lamps are full spectrum. ( <- that's the better bulb you need ;) )

 

Fluorescent lamp standards have similarly changed. Compare the output of the old T12 tubes to today's T5HOs.

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2 hours ago, LabRat said:

Then I'd start using the CMH from about 2 feet away and lower it a few inches every three days until about a foot above them.  They should love that.

I think you'll fry seedlings if you do that. Start at 3' and watch for sunburn (seriously), then be very careful getting them closer than 18".

 

Here is a pic of a lower branch off a Kush (flowering under T5HO, finished at ~3' with 115g yield using a 3:1 mix of 6500K and 2700K tubes) which was rooted then grown ~8" from T5HO for weeks before being moved to 2-3' from a CMH...

HPIM3452-crop.jpg

...the purple is sunburn! I started them off at 3' away for a dew days before moving to 2', a couple days later I noticed the burn. Tender seedlings may not take it as well.

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That purple isn't sunburn.  It's even on the small leaves that would have been well shaded.  Lots of strains show a little purple near the end even if not a purple strain.

 

Old tech, new tech.  Tech is tech and those 315s don't need any more head room than my 400s.  Been wanting the 400 CMH bulbs that run on the magnetic HPS ballasts for a long time but couldn't find them unless I got the electrical store to order me in a case of 6 and I didn't have $300 to get them.  Would have been nice at $50 per.

 

I have a home made bank of 8 - T-12s and used a little light meter to check it against my 1000W.  At almost 2 feet away the 1000 pegged the meter at over the 2000 on the dial and a foot under all 8 fluoros barely hit 200.

 

There's a first class wiring job for you. :D

 

T-12s01.JPG

 

I put quick connects on each ballast so I can run 2,4,6 or 8 tubes.  Hard to find the good tubes now.  I like the 40W  GE Daylight Ultras. 3050 lumens and 6500K.  Thing weighs 40 pounds tho and is getting sway-backed as the weight is hanging on each corner.  That DIY tent is hinged so the walls fold in to the frame.  Had to do that to get it downstairs into the grow room to veg stuff in but it would have been too crowded so I'm using it in the spare bedroom but have a 400 MH in it now.

 

tentJPG.jpg

 

I'd like to get at least one 400 CMH and do a side-by-side with two DWC tubs running clones from the same mom.  Everything exactly the same but the lights.  My Hortilux Super HPS up against the CMH.   Everybody seems to claim the 315s are as good as a 600HPS so it would be nice to have one of those to play the CMH role.

 

If you like using T-5s have you seen the ones Hortilux makes?  Check these out.

 

:peace:

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10 hours ago, LabRat said:

4 to 5 feet away for CMH is way too far for vegging plants past the seedling stage tho. To far away for seedlings too but I never use the big lights on sprouts.  I run my 1000W HIDs 18 - 24" stationary and a foot away on the light rail.  The 400s can be as close as 8" as long as there is good air flow between the light and the tops.  Weird about the K temp for HIDs.  My old MH bulb is only 3200K but this cheapo PlantMax one I got is 7200K.  Lots of blue but almost no red at all.  Need a better bulb I think.

 

Cool whites should be fine for your seedlings until they have a few nodes on them Magician.  Then I'd start using the CMH from about 2 feet away and lower it a few inches every three days until about a foot above them.  They should love that.

 

How do you plan to grow them as they go along?  I never use RW for growing so wondering what your plans are for them.

 

:peace:

 

 

Huge amount of info, I've read it a number of times, and I am beginning to understand a little, these tubes I have will do, but for a short time (is this correct) ?

Your grow room looks about the same as mine, give or take a foot :) my cupboard dimensions are 44" wide, 31" deep, 8ft high.

It has taken over a year to build this, and to buy when I can.

RW = ?

How do you plan to grow them as they go along?

my plan is to grow them up to a size where they can be placed into the DWC system and the CMH switched on, the light has wattage settings

165w, 205w,245w,280w,315w,345w,380w.. I have also attached an inline fan to the light, and this will draw some heat (via trunking) direct from the light, and expel it out the grow room, I have a 2nd hand squirrel fan that can turn over allot of air in the grow-room, the fan speed is adjustable, the fan attached to the light isn't, noise dictates the speed of the squirrel extractor fan, noise is my worry.

I was hoping I could get some help on when to place them into the system proper.

I bought Advanced Nutrients PH Perfect, solely for the reason I don't need to worry about PH, I don't know if there any good.

The DWC system reads very simple, unsure when I must replenish the nutrients, but again I am learning as I go along, I bought a larger & quieter Air pump, the ones that came with it were noisy as hell,

The shelf that the seedlings are sitting on, will eventually be placed close to the floor (4" of the floor, the DWC bins will sit on shelf) the tube lights will be removed, and hopefully the system will will run well, 15ltrs I think the DWC bins hold.

I have still to finish the floor, and cut a hole in the roof for the inline light trunking, the hardest job is light proofing the door, this is proving challenging, at the moment draught excluder kind of heavy duty is ok, but unsure if the rubber will become stiff and thus useless.

It  has taken me so long as I must move slowly, my memory is very bad, and notes are the thing, I have sometimes been stuck on the same thing for such a long time, but I read more and more about the benefits of cannabis, I am hoping to come off most of my meds, once I can grow them consistently

Many many thanx for your help, you guys are above and beyond.

PS what do you think of my grow room, a work in progress....

 

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