Shadey

I think I am ready to Start

26 posts in this topic

I have, I believe, everything I need to start my first grow, except my license from health Canada. Thanks to everyone for the advice and all the info you have put into this forum that has so far made life fairly easy for me, learning from others mistakes and successes, I am sure I will be learning plenty more from my own lol. In theory I feel confident after 2 months of reading 2-3 hours a day but I know real life is not the same as it is on a page and practical experience counts for everything.

 

 

Purchased so far.

4' x 4' x 6.5' Fusion grow tent.

6" fusion extraction fan and a 16" x 8" filter with 6 inch shiny tubing 480 CFM.

Adjustable speed switch for extractor fan.

1000 watt LED full spectrum grow light.

2 adjustable pulleys.

10 x 5 Gal cloth buckets.

5 x plastic washing up bowls to sit pots in and collect run off

Sohum organic grow medium.

PH pen all calibrated and 2 gallons of de ionized water for cleaning pen and watering new plants and seeds.

cheapo light and moisture meter.

Temperature and humidity meter.

Timer switch for the light.

12 inch 3 speed oscillating fan.

small pots for clones.

Clone root hormone.

Scalpel.

Humidity dome.

measuring jug, cups and spoons.

Jobes organics 3-7-4 nutes

Apple cider vinegar organic non pasteurized with little bits in lol.

2 x 20 gallon water containers.

Fish pump and air stone.

Bag seeds, I don't know what make and model they are but for the first grow I am not going to waste good seeds yet until I work out the bugs lol. Once I have done one grow I will get another small tent and lights for vegging and mothers.

I will use a scrog, once I have built one. It seems to be the least stressful method of training, that produces higher yields that I can see. 

 

Having problems finding organic black strap molasses in the shops may have to go online for it.

 

I have been experimenting this week.

 

Ph tested my water 7.2 coming out of the tap.

Aerated for 3 days Put 3 ltrs through my first pot to see what the run off would be. Sohum organic soils say water between PH 6 - 7 is ok

Run off is 7.4 PH

 

PH water down with apple cider vinegar to 6.6 close enough for my experiment.

3 days later, soil is damp to touch at the bottom of pot, add 2 litrs PH 6.6 water, same amount of run off  as last time, PH 7.2 almost no change in the run off. Not sure I like that.

 

I am going to try germinating 6 seeds and start the ball rolling this afternoon, hopefully in a couple of days I can put some sprouts in the Sohum soil with de ionized water with a natural light lamp, I use when doing my airbrush artwork, and see what appears.

 

If anyone sees anything I am missing or doing wrong or I can improve on, please jump in.

 

Cheers.

 

 

 

 

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You're wading into the fray much better equipped than the vast majority of the many new growers I've seen come by over the years! 

 

A few tips regarding water.  Invest in a cheap RO unit.  Even something that only produces a few gallons/day would be enough for your ambitions and will save you no end of grief.  pH is only one concern as there are always some excess minerals in your water and just like the scale that builds up in your kettle those minerals build up in your pots.  The plants also absorb more minerals than they can use which builds up in the leaves and leads to toxic salts buildup that usually shows up about 4 or 5 weeks into flowering with the older fan leaves going brown along the edges, (just like nute burn which is what it kinda is), until the whole leaf gets thick and crunchy and crumbles up when lightly bent.  I don't know how many times I've seen grows where all the helpful, (but not very knowledgeable), readers are suggesting all sorts of nutrient deficiencies and what to add to help.  At that point adding anything will only make it worse.  Flushing well will slow it down but won't fix what's already involved.

 

Try running that deionized water through some of your dirt and see what you get for pH.  I'm not familiar with it and mostly use soilless ProMix but the last couple grows have experimented with blending in some of their potting soil and sure don't need to feed nutes near as much.  DWC is my preferred method and I'll be getting back into that soon I hope.  I use AN's pH Perfect nutes so don't even bother checking pH no matter which grow method I use and haven't run into any deficiency problems.  Drink the Apple Cider Vinegar as it's better to use for that than it is for adjusting pH.  A bottle of pH Down and UP isn't much and works a lot better.

 

If you plan to use tap water then contact your provider for a water analysis report.  They will usually email you one for free or they may even post results on their town/city web page.  It should tell you all they test for and the levels including pH and PPM.  Something to particularly or ask about is whether they use chlorine or chloramine to disinfect the water.  Chlorine is best from a growing aspect as it will evaporate but without filtering by something like RO you can't easily get rid of chloramine.  Hopefully they don't use fluoride.  Won't really hurt the plants but I wouldn't want to drink it.  We buy RO water for drinking as we don't have town water here and I wouldn't drink that either.  Our house water comes out of a dugout on my property and is just filtered down to 5 microns without any disinfection used.  It's also around 400ppm so I don't want to give it to my plants either so they also get RO.

 

You might want a ppm pen too if you haven't got one.  They're cheap and last for ages unlike pH pens.  Make sure you have calibration solutions for both types and maybe get some storage solution for the pH pen to sit in between uses.  NEVER keep your pH pen in distilled/deionized or RO water as it will ruin the probe.  That little glass ball is full of a salt solution that slowly leaches out of or is contaminated by things leaching in through it's permeable glass.  The storage sol'n is a salt solution about the same as what's in the ball and can get you much more life out of your probe.

 

Some better nutes would grow better pot.  The ones you list are way too high in P in relation to the N and K than is optimal.  I've been using AN nutes for 16 years and never had problems I didn't create on my own.  Something to think about.

 

I can't recall if I gave you this link to grow books but it bears repeating.

 

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS. I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more.  Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here.  No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as some are 50+ megs. They got lots.  Enjoy.

 

:peace:

 

 

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Hi LabRat, thanks for the advice, very much appreciated.

 

When ever I start a new endeavor I take my time to investigate it to the best of my ability and get the right equipment, I aim for the best that my pocket can and sometimes cant afford but I try to get value for my money. I hate wasting money on something that cant do the job properly and ends up being replaced quickly.Sun Tzu, The Art of War, no yourself and know your enemy lol.

 

The cost of my medicine is $450 dollars a month so $750 odd bucks on grow equipment to get better and healthier products is a no brainer.

 

13 hours ago, LabRat said:

Invest in a cheap RO unit.

Yes I was thinking about this several moths ago as we moved from a well to city water and it does contain chlorine and fluoride, so I have been drinking bottled water, Fiji, as it has a high silica content which removes fluoride and other toxins/heavy metals from the brain. I have seen RO units advertised on Kijiji New for 300$ so I think I will look into that option these PH problems seem to require a lot of experience to deal with because of all the variants involved and anything I can do the alleviate possible problems will be a big bonus.

 

14 hours ago, LabRat said:

  Drink the Apple Cider Vinegar as it's better to use for that than it is for adjusting pH

LOL I was actually, it was in the pantry already which is why I used it. I drink half a cup in the morning with fiji water and lemon juice in a pint glass room tempreture.

 

 

14 hours ago, LabRat said:

 

Try running that deionized water through some of your dirt and see what you get for pH.

Yes I thought of doing that after my last Run Off PH check. I will make up a new pot to check as the one I am testing is now influenced by the tap water ect.

 

 

13 hours ago, LabRat said:

You might want a ppm pen too

Yes I will, also need to swat up on this connection between ppm and PH. I have salts for calibration that came with the PH pen. I have kept the solutions in mason jars to use again could I use the 6.18 solution to store the pen in?

 

13 hours ago, LabRat said:

Some better nutes would grow better pot

Ok, I was going to use the Jobes in the 12/12 flower cycle, one time use only as it lasts for 6 weeks. I was going to make a tea of worm castings and Black strap molasses for use during the complete grow maybe once a week to keep the wee beasties happy and productive. What NPK ratio would you advise?

 

14 hours ago, LabRat said:

I can't recall if I gave you this link to grow books but it bears repeating.

I got it from another of your advice posts. I got the Jorge ones you recommended. They are very thorough and I like the pictures that go with the text it helps to see what is being written about.

 

Cheers.

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Way to set yourself up for success!

 

I personally think the RO water should be reserved for your consumption.  I use a zerowater filter.  It's gravity fed, and takes 400 ppm water to 000 ppm.  Filters are about $15 each

 

In my opinion, water quality is far less important in an organic grow.  This is based on a lot of years experience using my tap water which runs 205 - 230 ppm.  I haven't experienced any issues.  I think this is why:  I consciously monitor the amount of Ca and Mg in nutritional supplements and aim to keep it low, the CEC of the grow medium is working well, and I follow a "less is more" nutritional philosophy using low NPK products.  While the plant uses differing amounts of N, P, & K based on its point in the life cycle, I have found that ensuring all nutrients are readily available in small amounts at all times eliminates the need to have different products for veg and bloom stages.  I've used "bloom" ferts from start to finish for years.

 

I also suggest using the Jobe's as well as earth worm castings in the grow medium from start to finish because they contain a bunch of microbial life as well as nutrition.  They make a little bit of nutrition go a very long way.  Making worm tea will be great for a quickly available N meal.  The tea doesn't have to be aerated either, fermented teas are SO easy and effective.  I use a Jobe's Organic 2-5-3 formula in the grow medium, feed with a low NPK (3-3-3 or lower) tea once to twice a week, and apply a micro nutrient/trace mineral supplement at half strength every 2-3 weeks.

 

It'll probably cost a bit more, but grocery stores usually have organic blackstrap.

 

 

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Thanks for the info frmrgrl,

 

2 hours ago, frmrgrl said:

 I use a zerowater filter

 

Dammn, just ordered a PPM pen yesterday and Zero water filters come with one. $45 for a 3 liter jug and replacement filters are $17, it produces 0 PPM water or close to it and filter life is dependent on how much PPM is in my water, that would be the easiest system for me ATM.

Not sure I can get a RO unit under my sink with all the other crap thats in there and the cheapest I can find is $300 which will produce 75 gal a day, which is way more than I would need, so filters would last a long time which is a plus. When my pen arrives next week I can test my tap water PPM and see how long a filter in the zero water will last roughly and compare longevity costs with the RO system.

 

Just put 3 liters of distilled water through the 5 Gal Sohum soil and its run off is 7.6. The info on the Sohum site says water between 6-7 is ok so I think I will give it a bash and see what happens. 6 seeds into water for germination  :) Let the fun begin

 

3 hours ago, frmrgrl said:

grocery stores usually have organic blackstrap

Not here they don't, :( the closest I can find is fancy molasses in Wall Mart, I will have to check out the organic stores.

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7 hours ago, Shadey said:

Dammn, just ordered a PPM pen yesterday and Zero water filters come with one

 

 

It is good to have more than one way to measure something, stuff breaks, calibrations drift, etc.

The downside is that you may be pushed into learning about accuracy and precision if you notice that reading don't always agree, and are not always out in the same direction. :D

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8 hours ago, Unregistered said:

The downside is that you may be pushed into learning about accuracy and precision

Precision and accuracy is my middle name :) There is never a downside to learning anything. As an airbrush artist I try to produce photo realistic pictures and it gets frustrating being a perfectionist, as it is not often achieved, but there seems to be a lot more work for a novice until experience is gained in growing things. Its a similar process for airbrushing, lots of different variables to learn about that can screw things up, only you get to see the results of your work fairly quickly as you are painting it, instead of 3-4 months later growing it. Its all procedures and once I understand them and can get the foundation of my grow right everything should follow smoothly  ;) LMAO.

 

 

7 hours ago, Unregistered said:

you notice that reading don't always agree, and are not always out in the same direction

 

Yes I was starting to get a little paranoid about it all lol. Wondering if my PH meter is working properly as my tap water PH keeps going up and down and when I lower the PH of my water more, the PH of my run off gets higher?? but when I stick the meter in the calibration solution its bang on so I am learning things are not always dependable on their previous expression. So I will stop trying for perfection ATM and just have a play around with my first proper grow and see what happens.

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PPM Pen arrived this morning, tap water is only 42 PPM so The zero water filters will last a long while, so I will pick one up at walmart today.

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Very nice setup to start out with. Good luck with your grow. You have lots of experience watching on already. Lab and frmrgrl won't steer you wrong.

 

:peace:

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Posted (edited)

17 hours ago, Shadey said:

As an airbrush artist I try to produce photo realistic pictures....

So, photorealistic airbrushed pot plants coming up in the next few months... ;)

 

 

Quote

Yes I was starting to get a little paranoid about it all lol. Wondering if my PH meter is working properly as my tap water PH keeps going up and down and when I lower the PH of my water more, the PH of my run off gets higher?? but when I stick the meter in the calibration solution its bang on so I am learning things are not always dependable on their previous expression. So I will stop trying for perfection ATM and just have a play around with my first proper grow and see what happens.

pH can be tricky to measure, especially in complex live systems where it can take time for stable equilibriums to develop. Try taking multiple samples at  different times to get a handle on what's going on. E.g., 3 samples every 10 minutes until they don't change significantly. I would expect the 3 samples to give similar readings, and the readings to stabilize over time. EC/PPM reading could behave the same way, over a shorter period. Familiarity with how a system works, responds to disturbaces, and how your own technique and equipment can influence results, will lead to numbers that more acurately reflect reality. You can visualize these systems kinda like a pile of jello pieces; poke'em or nudge them and the pieces will jiggle and shift around for a bit before the pile stabilizes, kick it with a huge hit of acid or base when trying to adjust pH or a massive dose of N and it coud fall apart. You want to take reading when the jiggling stops to make sure you haven't likck the pile.

 

If your readings are consistantly all over the place you may need to clean up you technique and equipment - as in scrubbed with detergent, rinsed with distilled/deionized water - to minimize those potential sources of error. Inconsistencies with sampling and equipment can quickly become your largest source of error.

Edited by Unregistered
completely borked up the quoting
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To get a truer reading of your runoff pH you need to water your plants enough that the soil is saturated.  Remove any runoff that remains after a half hour or so and let the plants sit overnight.

 

Then add a cup of water or so to force some more runoff and test that.  It takes time for acid/base reactions to complete and testing what comes out when you first water is just showing you something close to the pH of the water you just added and not the true pH of the rootball your plants live in.

 

And if you are growing in living soil then you need to go easy on bottled nutes.  frmrgrl has a good attitude to growing that should work well with what you're doing.  I'm more of a hydro guy and just in the last few grows have been experimenting with blending my soilless with real dirt.  I bought a shitload of Promix stuff.  Couple of 107L bales of the soilless HP with myco , few large bags of their Vegetable & Herb and 5 more big bags of their potting soil mix.  Both of the last two have added organic nutes and the myco as well.

 

The first grow or two using the pre-loaded blends 50/50 I fed them my hydro nutes like I did using just the HP that has no nutes and ended up with seriously crispy leaves later in flower.  This grow I backed right off and with 4 weeks just done flowering they are looking really good.  Only gave them a couple doses of veg nutes then loaded them up with bloom nutes and Big Bud when I flipped.  One more dose of BB I think then let them coast to the end with a couple lighter feedings if they need it.  All the Promix stuff is certified organic so I'm going to be growing some with some decent organic supplements just to have some organic pot around. :)

 

Garden01.jpg

 

:peace:

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6 hours ago, Ganjajuana said:

Very nice setup to start out with. Good luck with your grow

 

Cheers Ganjajuana.

 

5 hours ago, Unregistered said:

So, photorealistic airbrushed pot plants coming up in the next few months.

 

It was something I was considering actually, you never know, could be a thing, some people may want a nice portrait on canvas of their favorite bud :)

 

4 hours ago, LabRat said:

To get a truer reading of your runoff pH you need to water your plants enough that the soil is saturated.  Remove any runoff that remains after a half hour or so and let the plants sit overnight.

 

yes, I have got the zero water filter now, it works very well, 42 PPM , PH 7.2 tap water, reduced to PH 6.42 and 0 PPM its a relief that I haven't got to mess with the water now, one less thing to screw up :) My last test was over 24 hours ago and I threw out the run off so I will add more for a thorough flush today and remove the run off then I will add another litr tomorrow and check that at different times to see if builds or reduces PH. The info on the site says the soil should be at 70 - 80 degrees and my basement has been around 64 - 67 this week so I will stick some heat on down there and maybe that will help get the micro herd waking up and doing their job.

 

My 5 seeds have all cracked and are now in a paper towel developing roots. Thought I did six but one disappeared somewhere lol.

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I did another flush on the sohum soil with PH 6.4 water 0 PPM, waited 24 hours and added a half liter this afternoon, run off was 8.2 ?? seems to be getting worse the more I flush. I think I might send the manufacturer an email or phone tomorrow to see what they say about it :( I found the lost seed under my computer keyboard lol, my hands shake so much from nerve damage sometimes, that I must have missed the water container when I tried to put it in.

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I would contact them and see what's up with that soil.  Sounds like it has lime added and maybe the first soak is releasing a lot of it which is not a good thing.  To start seedlings or small, vulnerable plants in that would worry me.

 

If I get a chance I'll try the same experiment with the blends I'm using but my plants are doing great in it so I'd be surprised to get high pH readings from it.

 

I just looked under my keyboard and found 4 seeds hiding under there with the dust bunnies. :D

 

:peace:

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1 hour ago, LabRat said:

Sounds like it has lime added

Their site says not. This film is from their site, this stuff is designed for growing Marijuana, from seedlings upwards. I am going to start my 5 seeds in a couple of days and see what happens. When in doubt with airbrushing, I do a test panel and find out if it works or not, so I will apply the same method and see.

 

 

 

 

 

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Most plants do best with a ph between 5.5 - 6.5 from what i've read. Might try dropping the ph down to 6 (middle of the nums) to lower the overall ph. With 8.2 coming out i'd try 5.5 for a while. And i've noticed that my tap is 7.2 but if you let the water sit for a while in a container it slowly increases the ph. Not drastically but enough to notice. Might be happening in your pots...  :hippie:

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4 hours ago, LabRat said:

Sounds like it has lime added

2 hours ago, Shadey said:

Their site says not.

 

I did not find that statement on their site. They do add a bunch of stuff though: rock dust, charcoal, mineral salts, a few types of "meal", calphose (Google that one), ...

 

It is likely a buffering system similar to the carbonate system set up by dolomitic lime is present. E.g., " Langbeinite is a potassium magnesium sulfate mineral with the chemical formula K2Mg2(SO4)3" which is added to SoHum, and "Dolomite is an anhydrous carbonate mineral composed of calcium magnesium carbonate, ideally CaMg(CO3)2." The SO4 and CO3 ions from these will react with the acid released from peat in the same way, the differences will be in how quicky the system responds to changes, the range of pH it works in/over, etc. Phosphates (presumably calphose has a bunch) will also work the same way, so there could be multiple systems each doing a bit part which adds up to everything falling into place - a "live" system in a chemical sense working with the microbes and bacteria.

 

SoHum looks to be big on a "just add water" philosophy... maybe you shouldn't be trying to fiddle with things. <shrug>

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That soil sounds like it's gonna be pretty "hot" for sprouts or seedlings.  Does it say anything about diluting the soil for sensitive plants?  Even the ProMix Veg & Herb says to mix it 50:50 with an soilless mix or plain potting soil to tone it down.  I put clones into and had only diluted it with about 20% perlite and they took it well and grew at a good rate under CFLs.  Not sure if fresh sprouts would have fared as well.

 

:peace:

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12 hours ago, 6k_ said:

if you let the water sit for a while in a container it slowly increases the ph

 

My water buckets are actually Calcium and magnesium containers from my buddies supplement manufacturing company, I washed them out thoroughly before using.

I found over the week my tap water did go up 0.2 PH. I also checked one of my cloth pots a couple of days ago, soaked in water and tested PH in case it was contaminating my run off but there was no change.

 

8 hours ago, Unregistered said:

I did not find that statement on their site.

 

No there was no statement saying they have no lime added, but their list of ingredients did not include lime as such. My chemistry knowledge is limited, something to brush up on, so I didn't recognize its constituents as part of some of the other ingredients. So thanks for that chemistry lesson :)

 

7 hours ago, LabRat said:

That soil sounds like it's gonna be pretty "hot" for sprouts or seedlings. 

Yes, all my acquired knowledge from here points in that direction and concerns me but my curiosity in their, "just add water" statement, wants me, to just stick em in and see what happens lol. I have one seed now showing a root, three others are cracked but nothing happening yet and one that's not doing anything, as far as I can see.

 

I will stick the one showing a root into the sohum in a couple of days and see what occurs. I think I will get some Pro mix HP and use it for when the others start to show, at least I know that my water and the Pro mix HP will be good for starting seedlings. If I can get one good mother going, clones will stand a better chance starting in the sohum, if there is a problem with it.

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Emailed Sohum soils yesterday, got an email back this morning asking me to call them. I just did, and spoke to a very nice man called Randy, who has been using and developing the soil for Sohum the last 4 years, and has been growing cannabis for 30 years the last 10 commercially. He said, they wanted to make it real easy to use, with minimal work involved in the growing process. He said he loves teaching people how to grow Marijuana and I can call him anytime if I get problems.That's what I call good customer service.

 

He says Sohum soil is magic for growing Marijuana and don't worry about the PH. He advised that he has used it for starting seedlings but says seedlings grow faster in a potting mix to start, he suggested Pro mix and said, don't tell Sohum lol. He also advised putting in a 1 gallon pot, once the plants roots have filled the starting pot, watering from the top around the root ball and once you have a good root system established move to a 5 gal pot (for me) with 1 inch of perlite in the bottom. Place pot in a tray and water from the bottom keeping a half inch of water in the tray at all times. He said he uses a worm cast tea, for something to do but its not necessary, straight into the tray as well, the plants don't need any molasses or anything else, there is plenty in the soil to keep them happy to the max. He also suggested using an Auto Pot from the UK or from Bio Flora that allows you, to not have to do any watering for a week to 2 weeks depending on temps and plant size. He said that once a clone has a few roots established they can go straight into the Sohum Soil no problem :)

 

My first seed will be ready tomorrow to go in some potting mix 2 others are now showing, waiting on the other 2 to show a bit of root.

 

 

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A little update. I now have 3 out of my first 5 seeds germinated. So I have stuck another 6 in to germinate as I wanted at least 5 female plants and as they are bag seeds and probably from a hermaphrodite, I don't know what they are except they will probably be Predominately Sativa as its recreational. I tried sexing the seeds but don't know if I got it right. I just want to get one good female for clones so all the rest will be grown and harvested. I will probably switch to 12/12 after they get 18 inches tall or I have topped all the branches and they have started to split. I was going to do a SCROG but as they are mystery genetics I think it may be easier to just do a straight grow to get the hang of it first as the second lot of germinated seeds will be about 9 days behind, so not sure if that would work well in a scrog.

Out of my second germination I now have 3 showing enough leg to put in pots which I have just done, one more has started to sprout and 2 have now been discarded due to not cracking.

2 of the fist group went into Promix potting soil and the other I put into the Sohum soil to see what would happen. The first 2 had grown about an inch and a half before the last went into the Sohum but now its almost the same size this soil seems very good for seedlings despite the high PH. The 3 from the second group have all just go in the Sohum as well and we will see what happens to them.    The plant back left had some shell stuck on the cotyledons and it burned of half of them so its a little sluggish, its the oldest by a day. The pot at the front is the Sohum soil and the plant went in at 10 pm about an hour before lights out and is a quarter inch below the surface.

 

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Next morning. Front right. look at how much that sucker grew overnight in the Sohum soil.

 

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Next pic is of my Airbrush Light box for tracing images, converted to a seedling grow box lol. Just had to change the bulb to a 2800K 60 watt and a 6500K 75 watt equivalent CFL. Also just put some white card over the opening instead of the glass that was there. I found the little fan at the dollar store it takes 2 AA batteries and they last about 4 hours, I have about 20 rechargeable batteries to keep it running. I found that if I Jam it against the tray it vibrates the plants and shakes them about so I dont need to point it at them directly :)

 

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Last pic so far, plant at the front is in Sohum and is 7 days yesterday the other 2 are 10 and 11 days yesterday in Promix potting soil. The one on the left has some deformation to the leaves but seems very healthy apart from that. Next time I take pics I will turn the lights off for a better view. They got watered this morning if you are looking at that dry soil lol.

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Looks good. From the thickness of the leaves i'd guess it's at least half indica. Once it gets larger it'll be easier to tell. 

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9 hours ago, 6k_ said:

From the thickness of the leaves i'd guess it's at least half indica.

Thanks 6K, I was hoping it would have some Indica in it, I prefer a more body to head high in the evenings, something with some CBD would be a nice surprise as well, but I doubt it will have much, if anything.

 

I just got 2 feminized seeds from a buddy who bought some Candida, it has the highest CBD (10-20%) and lowest THC (less than1%) of any strain on the seed market from seed supreme in the UK and got 2 Grand Daddy Purple seeds for free, which is another a good medical plant, so they say. He has given me the Grand Daddy Purple seeds as he doesn't like to get a buzzz on. So I will be doing one of those next for a mom and clone it, he is going to give me a clone of the Candida as well, so I will be pretty well set up for my meds once they develop :)

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OK more pics. These 3 are at 13, 17, and 18 days between them now, moved into my 4x4 grow tent with the LED light. All potted up into 1 gal pots. temps at 72 with 48% RH. 12 inch fan on low blowing out of the vent. The other 3 newbies are coming along ok, except the one at the front, as I snapped her root in half loosening up the soil after watering  but it has grown some root back.  :(

 

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The back one is the one with deformed leaves that always seem to look dry although growing well. The brown patches I think are from light burn but it got no closer to the light than the others.

 

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Close up of burnt one.

 

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close up of other 2.

 

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The spots on those leaves looks like when I get drops of nute/water on them when feeding. No prob either way, the new growth looks great. They are looking good!

 

:goodwork:

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