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Light left on 24/0 during flowering by mistake


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#1 NScooknet

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 06:41 AM

I made a bad mistake of not noticing my timer crapped out and did not turn off the lights at midnight like it was supposed to, so the lights in my small enclosed grow have been on for 24 hours straight over the past 2 nights.

That means that the lights for 2 nights in a row were on all night long and the plants never had any darkness.

What will this do to my flowering plants?

They "seem" OK right at the moment, and in fact, I've noticed so good growth, but I'm worried this might have stressed them or damaged them somehow in a way I cannot yet see.

What do you think, is this a problem?

Thanks!
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#2 Sticky_Icky

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 07:00 AM

Maybe. Maybe not. Go back to normal lighting schedule, and hopefully it's not going to cause you pain. Potential problems : revert to veg, or worse case, Hermaphrodite. Keep an eye out for nanners now.
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#3 my1952HD

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 07:28 AM

I have to agree with Sticky, and it seems that the only thing you can do is return to your normal lighting schedule. How long had your ladies been in the 12/12 flower cycle? Perhaps a 24 hour dark period if they haven't been in flower too long might help... 52.
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#4 NScooknet

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 08:07 AM

They have been in flower since July 21st.

So should I turn off the lights now and leave them in the dark until tomorrow noon when the lights usually go on?

God I hope I don't get any more hermies!
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#5 smokum

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 08:26 AM

I don't think you'll have done anything after only a 2 cycle fuck-up... but you could always consider staging down back to 12-12 over a couple/few days with an 18-6 followed by a 15-9, then to 12-12 as to not shock them too much and if your own personal time allows.
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#6 NScooknet

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 08:38 AM

Hmmm.....

Now I'm kinda confused about what to do.

I just turned out the lights to give them a 24 hour period of darkness to hopefully take the stress off and let them get some sleep.

What do you think, should I give them a stepped light cycle until back to normal as suggested, or just leave the lights off until noon tomorrow when they would usually come on, then turn them on and go back to the regular 12/12 cycle?

The last thing I want is any more shemale plants!

I'm down to only 7 plants after culling all the males and hermies, so these ones gotta be good until harvest!!
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#7 seabc

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 08:45 AM

Peace

Ya one time my timer fucked up, was away, lights stayed on for 72 hrs. I turn them off for 24 hrs, then went back to 12 and 12. No problems.

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#8 LabRat

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 08:54 AM

High NS

Nothing bad is likely to happen so you might as well return to your regular lighting schedule.

It takes repeated interruptions of the dark period to hermie your plants or cause them to re-veg.

I've re-vegged often and it takes a month of 24/7 light to get new vegetative growth happening.

I usually do my 12/12 from about 9pm on and off at 9am. Especially during the summer months to take advantage of the cooler nighttime temps and I'm usually up then and check the plants, timers etc while the lights are on.

Don't worry, be happy. smile

peace
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Lab's LoneStar Blue Heaven grow  to start a DWC and breed some seeds.

 

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#9 NScooknet

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 02:15 PM

Well, I bought a new timer...lol.


Man that was stupid of me!!

When the system is in a light tight enclosure it's easy to not notice that the light is on inside.

Live and learn.

I've left the light off today and will switch them back on at noon tomorrow.

The noon to midnight thing works for me because I'm usually up all night with chronic pain, and then once I finally do get to sleep I'm not up until around 11am or so, just before the lights "should" come on for me to go and talk to my plants and say good morning, hehe.

Hopefully all will be well, thanks for the advice!!
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#10 NScooknet

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Posted 01 September 2012 - 02:41 PM

Hey Labby, how's it goin?

I was a bit alarmed today when the light came on at noon to see a change in some of the leaves that didn't look too good.

I am wondering if it is because the light stayed on for a couple days straight and maybe dried them out or something?

Keep in mind I only have 6 fluorescent tubes that are 32W each, and 4 CFL bulbs that are 26W each (100W equivalent), I'm not running an HPS lamp or anything with high heat although if a leaf gets too close to the CFL's it gets crispy for sure.

I always keep my lights about 2-4" from the top of the plants to make sure they get as much light as possible.

There were about 6 dead and crispy leaves near the top of the plant off the bud, which I removed, and a few more were not crispy, but on the way to getting there.

I've pasted a pic below so you can see for yourself what I mean.

It's not too hot in there, only about 72 degrees or so, so I'm thinking either I'm running my nutes too strong at 1140PPM, or something happened as a result of the lighting timer f-up.

It's not all the leaves, just the older ones near the top of the plant closes to the lights.

Also, as you can see, many of the leaves have curl at the tips, which I understand is usually too much heat or too strong nutes correct?

What do you think, should I be worried, should I change/do anything to correct this, or is it even an issue??

Thanks as always for all your great info and for taking the time to reply to this newbie!

smile
















As you can see, the buds are coming along nicely! If you accidentally touch one, you get sticky!

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#11 LabRat

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Posted 01 September 2012 - 04:14 PM

I've seen that kind of damage to older fan leaves in my high ppm DWC before when near the end of flowering. If it's the same expect them to end up all brown and crispy. The damage will likely progress to newer fan leaves and eventually even start with the smaller sugar leaves in the buds.

Not that it causes a disaster but it ends up looking ugly all over and has some small impact on final yields.

This is why I start reducing my ppm the closer to the end I get. Seems to prevent that. The last week or so before chop I like to be down to 500ppm or lower.

Two other possible causes are a viral, bacterial or fungal infection. Or tobacco mosaic virus if you smoke 'baccy. Spots from it look just like that and shows in older leaves first. I roll my own and wash my hands well before handling my plants tho it's possible to have it infect the plants from dust off your clothes.

As there is not very much plant material being formed I can't see a need for higher ppms, Just a nice, low supply of balanced nutes.

Good luck.

peace
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Lab's LoneStar Blue Heaven grow  to start a DWC and breed some seeds.

 

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#12 NScooknet

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Posted 01 September 2012 - 04:26 PM

Thanks Labby,

It's not tobacco, as I have never smoked, nor does anyone in my home, and I'm actually very sterile in terms of things like going out to the garden and making sure I was really well before going anywhere near my plants.

I've actually got some crappy rot mold in the garden, so I'm REALLY cautious about transferring anything inside.

I'm guessing my PPM's are just too high, I've diluted it down to around 870PPM now, hope that's an appropriate action to correct this, providing it "can" be corrected now.

Was that the right thing to do??
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#13 LabRat

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Posted 01 September 2012 - 05:32 PM

Certainly won't hurt to lower the ppm and it may help.

I've seen ozone damage that looks like that too but usually happens to all the leaves. The O3 burns little spots where the leaves draw in air through their stomata. It's very even all across the leaf surface too and I know you're not using O3.

As long as the damage progresses very slowly you shouldn't have any major problems getting a fine crop.

peace
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Later ....
 
LabRat,  a proud :canadian:
 
Bad things happen to good people to balance the good things that happen to bad people.
 
Lab's LoneStar Blue Heaven grow  to start a DWC and breed some seeds.

 

My 4, no 5 strain, 12 pot, DWC autoflower grow for a quick crop and more seeds.
 
 


#14 NScooknet

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Posted 01 September 2012 - 06:39 PM

Nope, not using ozone, but I probably should have my air tiger hooked up, it gets a little smelly outside every now and again if the wind hits just right.

Luckily the cleome plants I have outside kinda smell like pot and it can easily be blamed on them...lol.

I noticed some little white spots on some of the leaves the other day, and wondered what they were, in fact, I was hoping that it wasn't little flakes of crap falling off the fluorescent tubes or something, which it wasn't.

It was only a few days after these white spots appeared that the leaves went like they are now, but then again, that was directly after the lights were left on for 2 days straight.

What do you think this might be??





PS, this is what happens when your well collapses!


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#15 LabRat

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Posted 01 September 2012 - 07:07 PM

That almost looks like thrip damage but they leave very clear spots like little windows.

You examined the underside very carefully for bugs I imagine so I'm not sure. Unless it's the beginning of powdery mildew but I don't think so. Never had it myself or on my plants. wink

Sure got red dirt there. You guys have to pay for repairs to the well? Hope not, looks expensive.

peace
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Later ....
 
LabRat,  a proud :canadian:
 
Bad things happen to good people to balance the good things that happen to bad people.
 
Lab's LoneStar Blue Heaven grow  to start a DWC and breed some seeds.

 

My 4, no 5 strain, 12 pot, DWC autoflower grow for a quick crop and more seeds.
 
 


#16 NScooknet

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Posted 01 September 2012 - 07:11 PM

Thanks for the info!

I checked for any little critters, webs or anything that looked eaten but could find nothing like that.

There's powdery mildew in my veggie garden outside, but you can see it's raised off the leaf, and my indoor cannabis plant leaves look like the white patches are sunken into the leaf.

Weird.

There's only about 2 or 3 of the oldest fan leaves that have the white spots.

Yeah, red sand, it sux! It's all sand here, no rocks anywhere, just sand.

Makes it a bi#$% of a time trying to grow a garden in sand during a drought!

smile
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#17 Rebel Dawg

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Posted 02 September 2012 - 07:17 AM

As for the lights being on to long, everyone here has done this at least once. Results can be hermies but most likely not. I would just keep cruising.
As for the burnt leaves, just back off on the nutes and get your ph adjusted correctly and they will be fine. Don't listen the the naysayers telling you they are burned beyond help etc, they are full of shit.
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#18 Doobie Brother

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Posted 02 September 2012 - 07:26 AM

Cannabis is very resilient, and will bounce back from most of the stupidity we through at it. In general don't sweat every spot of necrosis you see, particularly when found on lower, older leaves.

If there are no insects, and the symptoms you see do not worsen and/or spread, chill.
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#19 NScooknet

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Posted 02 September 2012 - 08:13 AM

Kewl,
Those are answers i like!!

The nutes are around 840PPM or so right now, which is down from 1160PPM or so, so hopefully that will help.

I was actually under the impression according to the Aqua Flakes nutes growth guide recommendations for PPM's that it should actually be up around 1300PPM during this stage in the flower cycle according to the weeks.

So now, I'm wondering just where my nutes PPM's should be, and what adjustments I should make as the girls near harvest.

Any thoughts on this??
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#20 LabRat

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Posted 02 September 2012 - 10:30 AM

The instructions on the labels are recommended for non-cannabis growing likely and are not rules that must be followed.

Each strain will react differently to nute levels as well. My kush will devour nutes and I'll run them up to and over 1500ppm where if I did that to the KaliMist they would burn like a match.

A lot depends on the environment too. With your lower light levels the plants don't get as much energy to process the nutes so they will burn at lower levels.

A lack of CO2 with lots of light will shut down growth and cause the plants to build up nutes in their tissues also causing burn.

As will high temps with low humidity. The plant is thirsty and draws up more nutes along with the water and can't use the nutes so again they build up and cause burn.

To safely run high nute levels everything else needs to be at high levels as well. Lots of light, good ventilation with plenty of fresh air coming in or CO2 supplementation and decent relative humidity. 60-70% for vegging and around 40-50% is good for flowering.

After years of growing one develops a bit of a sixth sense about the state of one's plants health.

Until then it's best not to push things unless you're prepared to lose. I've pushed to the edge of disaster many times and almost always managed to come back from the edge. Almost always. wink

If the leaf problems progress I'd drop the ppm even lower like down to 500. If that doesn't stop it then there has got to be a disease of some kind happening.

peace
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Later ....
 
LabRat,  a proud :canadian:
 
Bad things happen to good people to balance the good things that happen to bad people.
 
Lab's LoneStar Blue Heaven grow  to start a DWC and breed some seeds.

 

My 4, no 5 strain, 12 pot, DWC autoflower grow for a quick crop and more seeds.