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how to kill spider mites.


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#1 the_dank_one

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 02:32 PM

Spider mites are garden pests that are mainly found living on the under sides of the leaves of plants. They usually spin protective silk webs around the leaves and puncture the plant cells to feed themselves, causing great damage. The most obvious signs of spider mites infestation are small brown or yellow dots and small strands of silk on the leaves of a plant, along with leaf discoloration. A spider mite infestation needs to be treated on an urgent basis, since it tends to grow too quickly. Though miticide or pesticide is the quickest solution, you can also opt for home-made insecticide, so as not to cause much harm to your plants. In the following lines, we have provided information on how to kill spider mites.

How to Get Rid of Spider Mites
First of all, you need to make sure that you have spider mites in your garden. Scorched looking leaves and leaf discoloration are amongst the most obvious signs. After you have seen these signs, take a white sheet of paper and hold it under a branch. Gently shake or tap the branch. Look at the paper. If it has slow-moving specks on it, your problem is surely that of spider mites.
In case you feel that the problem of spider mites is not too great, you can wait for sometime, to see whether it gets solved on its own. Insects like lady beetles, predatory mites and big-eyed bugs are natural predators of spider mites and can easily get rid of the problem for you. Since these predators can be killed by insecticides, make sure to spray them carefully and save the beneficial insect species.
One of the major conditions supporting the outbreak of spider mites on plants is dryness. So, make sure to give your plants adequate water, especially during the dry periods. In case of sturdy plants, you can even hose them down periodically. This will help in removing the dust on their leaves and thus, restrain the spider mite webbing that holds the eggs and leads to the break.
In order to retain moisture in plants, try to keep them away from late afternoon sun and arid weather. This solution can work mainly in the case of potted plants, which you can remove from direct sunlight and put under shade. In case of plants that are attached to the ground, try to provide them shade in any other way. For indoor plants, you can draw the shades or move them out of direct sunlight. Using a humidifier next to the plants is another option.
In case you feel that the problem is not going away by natural means, make your own insecticide and get rid of the spider mites. For the purpose, add 5 tbsp liquid dish detergent to 1 gallon water. Repeated sprayings will be required to kill the mites. While spraying, ensure that you do use it on the undersides of the leaves. This is because spray will only kill those spider mites that it comes in contact with.
Another homemade insecticide comprises of alcohol and water. For making the same, add 1 part alcohol to 1 part water i.e. use both in equal quantities. Since rubbing alcohol is poisonous, it will kill the mites on contact. At the same time, it evaporates quickly and thus, will do little damage to your plant. Make sure to use the spray on the entire plant, paying emphasis on the bottoms of the leaves.
If you feel that even homemade insecticide is not helping you kill spider mites, you have the option of using a miticide or other pesticide on your plants. They should be applied once every five days, till all signs of spider mite infestation go away. Remember that it is quite difficult to get rid of spider mites, even when you use pesticides. So, before using such harmful substances, weigh the pros and cons first.

http://lifestyle.ilo...mites-2510.html

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#2 the_dank_one

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 02:45 PM

A few months of drought is a natural part of spring here, but those dry months often result in a plague of spider mites that ravage our favorite house and garden plants.

Spider mites are not insects, but teensy eight-legged vegetarians. Under a magnifying glass they appear as red or green slow-moving spiders. If you smear a white piece of paper against the underside of a leaf infested by them, their bodies would be crushed and fine red or green lines would appear. This paper test is the fastest way to confirm that spider mites are using your plants as a source of water, food and shelter.

Spider mites hate rain, so living on the dusty undersides of leaves protects them and gives them a nursery for their eggs to hatch. A thin film of their delicate webs, especially visible in miniature roses, plus fallen leaves, is a classic indicator that your plants have been invaded.

And wouldn't you know that many of your favorite plants are their favorites, too: night blooming jessamine, dracenas, kentia and areca palms, miniature roses, plumbago, basil, pyracantha, cassava, crotons, junipers and citrus. First you will notice dead branches in your junipers or stipple marks on leaves marking the punctures made by their feeding frenzy. Bad cases will coat the leaves with that fine web that gives added protection to their eggs.

Chemical miticides can sometimes provide short-term control, but all these years of spraying Kelthane and other treatments have created spider mites immune to chemical warfare. These pesticides can still decimate populations of the beneficial mites that help break down organic matter and that prey on spider mites, plus wipe out good bugs such as ladybugs and lacewings and those cute little lizards that eat so many bad bugs.

One homemade "miticide" recipe calls for mixing 1 gallon of water, 1/2 gallon of buttermilk and 1 cup of flour. Spray this all over a plant. This mixture suffocates mites by the thousands, but it could get expensive if used all over the landscape. My favorite solution is old-fashioned water.

Watering restrictions allow for hand watering if a shut-off nozzle is on the end of the hose. A sharp coarse spray directed at an infested plant will blast off mites, their eggs and their young by the thousands, leaving them to die on the soil or mulch. Be sure to aim the water stream at the undersides of the leaves. Weekly watering does double duty by eliminating harmful dust from leaves and by giving all those beneficial critters a few drops to quench their thirst. (Baby lizards can eat quite a few spider mites.)

- John A. Starnes Jr., born in Key West, is an avid organic gardener and rosarian who studies, collects, cultivates and hybridizes roses for the diverse regions of Florida. He can be reached at johnastarnes@msn.com

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#3 the_dank_one

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 08:32 AM



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#4 the_dank_one

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 08:38 AM

advertising for these company's is not my job these are just some ideas. stealthbush told me about this.


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#5 the_dank_one

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 08:42 AM



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#6 the_dank_one

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 08:47 AM

neem oil


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#7 the_dank_one

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 08:54 AM

other predators eat mites.


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#8 StealthBush

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 06:00 PM

Just now seeing this thread..
I would have bought and tried that dank but used the Azamax that was given to me and that shit kicked there ass!

Great info in here.

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#9 Hooper_X

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 09:29 AM

What about this recipe I got out of an old HT?

8-10 garlic cloves
1 jalapeno pepper
1 to 2 teaspoons ground cayenne pepper
Put in blender and fill w/water. Blend well & strain thru cheesecloth. Add 1/8 tsp. Ivory dish detergent per quart of liquid, spray on plants.

Nonchemical, nontoxic, common household items. Just don't rub your face after making/spraying.

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How do you begin and end a question with the same word like that? You got skill.

#10 the_dank_one

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 04:57 PM

sweet thanx for adding that ..thats a good mix it is a pepper spray and the soap is used to dry them lil buggers out if the pepper dont piss em off ..
keep em coming boys and girls.

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#11 wohlandr

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 08:53 AM

i use vapona no pest strips.if the package is opened carefully,once the problem is looked after,i replace it into the package and seal it back up.i have re-used the same package for 3 years.it works on the eggs also.
wohlandr

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#12 leeroyjenkinsss

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 10:17 PM

The best thing that has worked for me so far has been the cooperative use of 2 home made products.

First...

Pepper spray: Simmer 5-6 Habanero peppers that have been finely chopped (paying extra attention to breaking open the seeds to get the good stuff inside) for each pint of water. Keep in mind to only simmer the peppers as boiling them will start the breaking down process and decrease the potency of your spray. Let cool to room temperature and strain the solids from the juice. This spray can be kept for an unreal amount of time if it is refrigerated, but if left out for like a week or more will make one of the most rancid smells. But if you havent cleaned up after yourself for over a week then Id say you have a different problem on your hands altogether.

Precautions: This is extremely spicy stuff! Depending on the sensitivity level of your skin you may want to wear gloves but I dont seem to have an issue as, I kind of like how extremely cleansing it is for my pores. A face mask is absolutely necessary, and some may find it to be harsh even with the mask. Turn off your fans, try not to get it in your eyes, try not to breathe it in, but the thing about this stuff is that it is safe to consume so as long as you mind your sensitive areas and prevent yourself from suffocating then youre fine.

Key point: The pepper spray can be used infrequently, as Ive noticed it makes the fan leaves pretty spicy to the taste even days after you spray it. It doesnt leave much residue that I can tell so it has to make eating a pain in the ass for them without suffocating your plant too much. This one effect alone will slow them down drastically.

Now for the second substance...

Peppermint spray: 3 teaspoons of Dr. Bronners Peppermint soap, 3 teaspoons of vegetable oil (I am going to see if the cold pressed hemp oil will work in a more superior manor than canola or soybean ect.), and fill the rest of a gallon jug with filtered water (I was reminded to mention that we use filtered water for EVERYTHING, I am not someone who is okay with variables I am unaware of. Variables that could cause substances to break down in a different way than I have intended them to).

Key point: Dr. Bronners promotes the use of their soaps for pest control, so we are off to a great start in general. This substance is going to further aid in what youve begun with the pepper spray...drying those fuckers out until theyre a water-less corpse. It will break down the membrane of the exoskeleton, causing them to be vulnerable, and suffocate as if they werent starved enough from hating the taste of your plants already. Remember to shake the peppermint spray super frequently as the oil will settle, and the oil is used to prolong the effects of the peppermint.

I like doing it this way because if you tried to use only the pepper spray, it would get too belligerent cause you would have to do it pretty often depending on your infestation level. It doesnt kill the eggs so you would need to be spraying regularly, which gets extremely annoying with it being that spicy. So we have the peppermint spray which smells amazing and feels very cool and refreshing, and when Im feeling meditative about it Ill just use a Q-tip sprayed in peppermint and manually wipe them off 1 by 1.

Thats about all I got so far. I refuse to dose my plants with hateful chemicals, and I havent had any success whatsoever with neem and on top of that I am not a fan of how much more residue the neem leaves than my regimen. My absolute favorite part about these 2 sprays is that they can be kept around indefinitely, which gives you a sense of security seeing as the MOMENT you see a mite you can go grab your holistic weapons and spray.

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#13 seabc

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 10:45 PM

Peace

I am going to see if the cold pressed hemp oil will work in a more superior manor than canola or soybean ect

I have tried those, canola and soybean, plus sesame seed, and neem. I just tried a few weeks back, the hemp oil. So far i have been impressed, with the hemp oil. I am using now citrus, Organic Soap(Grapefruit), instead of peppers. I first tried sunlight soap with the hemp oil, i made it too strong for a 4 week flowering plant.. Still the flowering plant is lookin better and did kill the mites, right soon to be harvested now. Was great on my veg and moms. Now I will be playing to see, how less of a mix I need, to kill off mites.



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PS.... I have 3 parts on Hemp Oil Vs Mites on that You Tube

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#14 leeroyjenkinsss

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 11:27 PM

Awesome video, those little fuckers were moving so fast!

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#15 Dougsnuts

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 01:25 PM

GREAT INFO.

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#16 Rebel Dawg

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 01:34 PM

with dank pulling up stakes and leaving the site, his pics don't show which really destroyed this thread, that sucks as it was pretty dam good.

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#17 Enlightened1

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 03:04 PM

I haven't had spider mites indoors for over 5 years. It's due mostly to how clean my environment is and my closed-loop air system.
Anyways!
There's a product that has been getting mad reviews at our shop lately. THE best method to absolutely DESTROY spider mites without using dangerous pesticides such as AVID and Floramite. The product is called Mighty Wash and is actually 98% water! What makes it effective is that the water is "charged". The way it works is when the spray hits the spider mites or eggs it begins to dry them out. It essentially "kills on contact". The pests do not need to eat the product, just come into contact with it.
DEATH TO MITES!!!
note: the spray is not to be diluted. Use as is right out of the bottle. Also, you absolutely MUST use a regular plastic sprayer bottle. Any sprayer with a metal tip at the end will destroy the charge in the water and make it useless.

Peace, E1

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#18 Dougsnuts

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 06:15 PM

GREAT INFO.

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#19 Organic Gardener

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 06:30 PM

funny enough E1, one of the places I went to for class. Had a watering system that electified their water smile they say it keeps their lines free of algae and is great for pests smile cool stuff.

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#20 Organic Prodigy

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 07:27 AM

with dank pulling up stakes and leaving the site, his pics don't show which really destroyed this thread, that sucks as it was pretty dam good.


what do you mean? im here.tdo retired...wink
what can i do to help keep this thread moving along.
i posted all the original vids and i can keep posting more if you wish.i just dont show "my" skeletons anymore.

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