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White Hairs turning brown


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#1 Snakebyte

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 01:54 PM

Would anyone mind letting me know why me of the white hairs on my female plant are turning brown?

If you need more information, pictures, or anything please feel free to ask.

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#2 TeeT

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 01:57 PM

It sounds like your female is maturing. That is a good thing.

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BokeaSmowl

#3 Genus

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 01:58 PM

what he said..

And how many weeks have you been flowering them? which kind of strain is it? are you still getting spurts of new white hairs while some and turning brown or are they all turning brown?

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Only dead fish have their mouth open...

#4 DANKNUG

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 03:17 PM

look at it like a pair of sagging boobs. the older they get, they start to shrivel up. wink

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#5 cali_budz707

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 06:55 PM

more info. could be maturing buds or could mean pollinated pre flowers. how old is the plant in question?

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#6 ineffable420

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 10:40 PM

here's more in depth answer to your question:

Choose breeding parents.
Selecting female plants for breeding is a much easier task than selecting males, because female plants demonstrate all the traits that are essentially important to a grower, or smoker. The breeder may want to place an emphasis on selecting for potency, flavor, smell, color, yield, growth stature, resistance to pests, et cetera. Cannabis for consumption is a group of pistilate flowers that have grown close together over and over many times to form a bud (a Cola is a group of buds). All you have to do is watch these flowers develop over the life cycle - harvest - smoke a bud sample from each plant - and determine the positive and negative characters of each plant for it's growth as well as its' smoking characteristics. Post-harvest evaluation allows additional inspection of aromas and flavors of the cured and matured bud.

Choosing male plants with desirable characteristics is not so easy. Males obviously don't produce female flowers; thus judging any characteristic is more of an inferential task; males just don't demonstrate these characters. Some breeders feel a good method for choosing a potential male is to rub the stem with your finger. The idea is if it exudes a pungent, resinous odor, it may be a good plant. This is really only a crude measure of the odor and shouldn't be the major selection criteria.

The best method for determining a male as a breeding parent is the progeny test. Progeny testing is achieved by taking pollen from a potential breeding male and using it to make seeds with the chosen female(s). The resulting seed population is grown out and examined to determine the effect of the male on the progeny. Progeny tests are without a doubt the most reliable method for determining the genetic value of the chosen male. One drawback to the progeny test is that it takes time to grow and evaluate. Only the best males performing males are used for the next generation.

Good link for Choosing a male

Collecting Pollen
One branch of male flowers will supply all the pollen necessary for small-scale breeders to produce ample seeds.
First, strip away other branches to guard against accidental random pollination, isolate the male as soon as anthers show. Be considerate of the fact that airborne pollen can travel miles. If you brush up against a plant on accident, pollen will become airborne and travel throughout the area instantly.
Just prior to the anther's opening, place a clean paper or plastic bag over the branch.
Secure the bag at the bottom with a piece of string or a wire tie to prevent pollen from escaping.
Keep the bag over the branch for several days.
You can break off the branch inside the bag and take it outside before you take it out of the bag.
When enough pollen seems to have been collected, tap the branch and shake the remaining pollen off into the bag.
Carefully remove spent branch and bag so the pollen does not escape.

Store and Protect the Pollen
Pollen does not have a long shelf life under natural conditions; it is easily destroyed by high temperatures and moisture. Pollen can however, be stored in the freezer for several months.
This is accomplished by carefully removing the pollen from the collection bag and passing it through a screen.
This removes any leaf matter from the anthers that may have fallen into the bag and contaminated the pollen, causing it to spoil.
Place wax paper under the screen to catch the pollen.
Then use a sterile scraper and place in a small coin envelope or sterile test tube or petri dish, and place in the freezer.
Cleanliness counts!
Pollen should not be repeatedly frozen and thawed, which will decrease its' viability. Take the pollen needed from within the freezer and leave the rest inside if you must.

Pollination
Pollination occurs when pollen comes in contact with the pistil. Depending on variety, fresh pistils are ready to pollinate from two to twelve weeks after flowering is induced. The more pistils on the bud at the time of pollination, the more seeds there will be. Fertile pistils appear turgid and most often are white or off-white. Pistils that are withered, rust- or brown-colored are past the point for successful pollination.
To pollinate, which is like collecting the pollen, cover the female branch with the pollen filled bag, and briefly shake the bag to ensure the pollen to make sure the pollen comes in contact with as many pistils as possible.
Leave the bag for 2 days and nights to ensure pollination.
Be careful not to scatter pollen when removing the bag.
If other plants are in the garden and are not intended for pollination, you can move target plants from the main area into a separate smaller place for pollination; a pollination chamber. After a couple days in the pollen chamber with the males, the female plants are thoroughly sprayed with water to destroy any remaining pollen (do this when the lights go on so water can evaporate), before they are moved back into the main area. Make sure to clean your pollination chamber after each use.
An alternate approach is to use a small paint brush.
Gently dip the brush in the pollen, and carefully brush the pollen onto the pistils.
Have a steady hand or risk airborne pollen.
This technique is perfect if the cultivator only needs a few seeds.


After fertilization, most seeds will be fully ripe in about 6 weeks, although some may be viable earlier. As the seed matures the calyx becomes split open so the breeder can then view the development. Seeds are ripe when they are mostly dark brown or grey, well mottled (tiger-striped), and sitting loosely in the calyx. Dry out seeds post harvest to increase germination rates and place in the refrigerator one or two months before sprouting, because germination rates are low immediately after harvest.

You will also need a seed storage technique to ensure your lineage.

peaceleaf


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Action is not a matter of right and wrong. It is only when action is partial, not total, that there is right and wrong.-Bruce Lee
The greatest friendship is that which the mind itself is respected. The information not shown to you, diminishes awareness, consciousness.CONSCIOUSNESS=FREEDOM
If you don't give a damn we don't give a fuck! Hey -Lil John

#7 Snakebyte

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 08:46 AM

Thank you for the information, The plant in question is approximately 2 months old. The strain is Oka Poka (not sure if i spelt that right) and Ive been growing 100% naturally. That is, no extra nutrients, no chemicals, no lights. The plant has been growing on sunlight, water, and manure and is doing quite well.

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#8 ineffable420

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 04:29 PM

try blackstrap molasses:
http://forums.cannab...&Number=1435788
http://forums.cannab...=1368390&page=2
http://forums.cannab...=1436353&page=2

BlackStrap has calcium (20%),
Mg (25%)
iron (15%)
240mg K (7%)

K (Potassium) - is used at all stages of growth. Soils with a high level of K increase a plants resistance to bacteria and mold. Helps combine sugars, starches, and carbohydrates, which is essential to production and movement as well as cell division. It increases the chlorophyll in the foliage and helps to regulate the stomata openings so plants make better use of the light and air. It is essential in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. It is necessary to make the proteins that augment the oil content and improve the flavor in Cannabis plants.

Magnesium (Mg) Mg is found as a central atom in every chlorophyll molecule, and is essential to the absorption of light energy. It aids in the utilization of nutrients. Mg helps enzymes make carbohydrates and sugars that are later transformed into flowers. It also neutralizes the soil acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant.

Calcium (Ca) - Ca is fundamental to cell manufacturing and growth. Ca is necessary to preserve membrane permeability and cell integrity, which ensures proper flow of Nitrogen and sugars. It stimulates enzymes that help build strong cells and root walls. Cannabis must have calcium at the tip of each root.

Iron (Fe) - It is essential to the enzyme systems and to transport electrons through photosynthesis, respiration, and chlorophyll production. Fe permits plants to use the energy provided by sugar. A catalyst for chlorophyll production, Fe is necessary for nitrate and sulfate reduction and assimilation. Fe colors the Earth from brown to red, according to concentration. Plants have a difficult time absorbing Fe. Acidic soils (under 7 pH) normally contain enough Fe for Cannabis growth.

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Action is not a matter of right and wrong. It is only when action is partial, not total, that there is right and wrong.-Bruce Lee
The greatest friendship is that which the mind itself is respected. The information not shown to you, diminishes awareness, consciousness.CONSCIOUSNESS=FREEDOM
If you don't give a damn we don't give a fuck! Hey -Lil John

#9 ineffable420

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 08:23 PM

bong
Also, 'mushroom compost' in your soil medium is a good breeding grounds for the beneficial bacteria.

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Action is not a matter of right and wrong. It is only when action is partial, not total, that there is right and wrong.-Bruce Lee
The greatest friendship is that which the mind itself is respected. The information not shown to you, diminishes awareness, consciousness.CONSCIOUSNESS=FREEDOM
If you don't give a damn we don't give a fuck! Hey -Lil John

#10 ineffable420

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Posted 01 July 2009 - 01:22 PM

Here's some more info you will NEED to know:

pH

Many new growers get into trouble with pH balance in their gardens. Anything that is done to the soil medium effects its' balance. The most important by far is water quality. It is common to have water that is slightly above or below a neutral pH. This is not a bad thing, but one must be careful to know the quality of your water and have an understanding of how to achieve a good balance.

The numbers used to describe pH are not of any specific unit, but are only a commonly recognized description of the far more complicated processes in play.
The pH scale, from 1 to 14 measures acid-to-alkaline balance, 1 is the most acidic, 7 is neutral, and 14 most alkaline.



Cannabis grows best in soil with a pH from 6.5 to 7.0. [plant] Within this range Cannabis can absorb and process available nutrients most efficiently.
Nutrient uptake is the process of the roots absorbing the nutrients provided to the plant.
Every full point change in pH signifies a ten-fold increase or decrease in acidity or alkalinity. For example:
soil or water with a pH of 5, is 10 times more acidic than water or soil with a pH of 6. (10¹=10 where ¹ is the point in the pH scale)
Water with a pH of 5 is one hundred times more acidic than water with pH of 7. (10²=100 where ² is for each point on the pH scale)

If the pH is too low (acidic), acid salts chemically bind (tie up) nutrients, and the roots are unable to absorb them through nutrient uptake.
An alkaline soil with a high pH also causes nutrients to become unavailable.

Having the pH too far out of the usable range can cause toxic salt build up that limits water and nutrient intake by roots.
Not all growing systems are the same. There not only are differences between optimum hydroponic pH and soil pH, but also slight differences between nutrient and fertilizer manufacturers.
Hydroponic solutions perform best in a pH range a little lower than soil. The ideal pH range for hydroponics is from 5.8 - 6.8. Some growers run the pH at lower levels and report no problems with nutrient uptake. This is usually due to the manufacturing process used to generate the nutrients and the buffers or chelation elements used. Buffers are compounds that act to resist a change in pH. Chelation act to resist the breakdown of certain nutrient elements that would otherwise react with other elements in the nutrient mix.

The pH of organic soil mixes is very important because it dictates the ability of specific pH-sensitive bacteria to break down organic compounds into forms that the plants can use. Fertilizer does not feed the plants, contrary to common perception. They feed the soil and provide the needed building blocks that the bacteria use to create the nutrients that the plants require.

leaf



Measure the pH with a soil test kit, litmus paper, or electronic pH tester, all of which are available at most nurseries.
When testing pH, take 2 or 3 samples and follow instructions supplied by the manufacturer "to the letter." Soil test kits measure the soil pH and primary nutrient content by mixing the soil with a chemical solution and comparing that solution to a chart. Every one of these kits I have seen or used is difficult for novice gardeners to achieve accurate measurements. Comparing the color of the soil/chemical mix to the chart is often confusing. If you use one of these kits, make sure to buy one with easy to use directions and ask the sales clerk on recommendations on using it.

Electronic pH testers are economical and convenient. Less expensive pH meters are accurate enough for casual use. More expensive models are quite accurate.
Pay special attention to the soil moisture when taking a pH test with an electronic meter. The meters measure the electrical current between 2 probes and are designed to work in moist soil. If the soil is too dry, the probes do not give an accurate reading. Perpetual (continuous without interruption) pH-metering devices are also available and are most often used to monitor hydroponic nutrient solutions.
For accurate pH test with an electronic pH meter:
-Clean the probes of the meter after each test and wipe away any corrosion.
-Pack the soil around the probe.
-Water soil with distilled or neutral pH water before testing.

If using litmus paper, collect good samples of the soil, then place the samples in a clean jar, and moisten the samples with distilled water. Place 2 pieces of litmus paper in the muddy water and wait 10 seconds, then remove 1 of the strips. Wait one minute before removing the other one. Both pieces should register the same color. The litmus paper container should have a pH color chart on the side. Match the color of the litmus paper to the chart to get a pH reading.
Litmus paper will accurately measure the acidity of the substance to within a point. Note that pH readings will not be accurate if altered by water with a high or low pH, and the litmus paper could give a false reading if the fertilizer contains a color tracing agent.

Check the pH of irrigation water. In dry climates, such as the desert, Australia, Arizona, etc., irrigation water is often alkaline with a pH above 6.0. The water in rainy climates is often acidic with a pH below 6.0. After repeated watering, water with pH that is too high or too low will change the chemistry balance of the growing medium, especially in organic or amended soils. Raw-water pH above 6.0 helps keep fertilizer mixes from becoming too acidic. Climate conditions can also affect irrigation water pH. Check the pH at least once a week.

Cannabis will grow in almost any soil, but it flourishes when the pH is between 6.5 and 7.0. Commercial potting soil almost never has a pH above 7.5. A lower pH is more common, even as low as 5.5. Some potting soils purchased at a nursery are pH balanced and near a neutral 7. However, most potting soils have a tendency to be acidic. The easiest way to stabilize soil pH is to mix in 1 cup of Fine Dolomite Lime per cubic foot (28 litres) of potting soil. Mix Dolomite Lime thoroughly into dry soil. Remix the soil in the container after it has been watered.

Fine Dolomite Lime has long been a favourite pH stabilizer for gardens. It is difficult to apply too much as long as it is thoroughly mixed into the soil. Dolomite has a neutral pH of 7, and can never raise the pH above 7. It stabilizes the pH safely.
Compensate for acidic soil by mixing dolomite with soil before planting. Dolomite is a compound of Mg (Magnesium) and Ca (Calcium). Dolomite does not prevent toxic salt build-up caused by impure water and fertilizer build-up. Proper fertilizer and regular leaching (To remove soluble or other constituents from by the action of running water through the medium (soil makeup)) helps flush away toxic salts. When purchasing look for Dolomite Flour, the finest fast-acting dust-like grade available. Coarse Dolomite could take a year or more before it becomes available for uptake by roots. Improperly mixed dolomite will stratify, forming a cake or layer that burns roots and repels water.

Hydrated Lime contains only Ca and no Mg and alters pH quickly. Mix thoroughly with warm water and apply with each watering for fast results. Many growers use a mix of .25 cup hydrated lime and .75 cup dolomite lime. Do not use more than .5 cup hydrated lime per cubic foot of soil or it can toxify the soil from fast release and kill the plants. Hydrated lime is also used as a grow room fungicide; just sprinkle it on the floor and around the room to kill fungus on contact.

Do not use quicklime; it is toxic to plants.
If you find that you have damaged the pH balance of the soil you are growing in it is far better to mix up a fresh batch of soil and transplant rather than trying to compensate after the fact. It is possible, but it's difficult and quite hard on the plants.


Hydroponic pH:

The pH of the nutrient solution controls the availability of ions that Cannabis needs to assimilate. It grows well hydroponically between a pH of 5.5 - 6.5, with 5.8 - 6.0 being ideal. The pH in hydroponic gardens requires a vigilant eye.

Roots take in nutrients at different rates, which cause the ratios of nutrients in the solution to change the pH. When the pH is above 7 or below 5.5, some nutrients are not absorbed as fast as possible. Check the pH every day or 2 to make sure it's at the perfect level.

Deviations in pH levels often affect element solubility. Values change slightly with different plants, grow mediums, and hydroponic systems. Overall, hydroponic gardens require lower pH levels than soil. The best pH range is from 5.5 - 6.5. Different mediums perform best at different pH levels. Follow manufacturer guidelines for pH level, and correct the pH using the manufactures’ suggested chemicals because they will react best with their fertilizer.

The pH can easily fluctuate up and down one full point in hydroponic systems and cause little or no problem with nutrient uptake.

Follow the directions on the container, and remember to mix adjusters into the reservoir slowly and completely; all of it. Fertilizers are normally acidic and lower the pH of the nutrient solution. But nutrient solution is still taken in by plants, and water transpires and evaporates into the air, which causes the pH to climb. Always add your nutrients before you stabilize the pH. Make your corrections slowly. You need to use as little adjustment solution as possible to correct the imbalances.
It is far better to have the pH off a little bit than adjusting too far and having to adjust back. The acids or alkalis that are used to make these adjustments can damage the chelation of the nutrient formulation and cause some of the elements to become unavailable. It takes some time for the adjusting substances to do their job so wait at least an hour, sometimes up to a day to allow the chemistry to happen before you make more adjustments.

Taking the time to properly observe your environment and learning the processes that are taken to create it and make it flourish. Slow and steady wins the race. [rasta]



Soil Temperature

Raising the soil temperature speeds the chemical process and can hasten nutrient uptake. Ideally, the soil temperature should range from 65-70ºF (18-24ºC) for the most chemical activity. Warm the soil with soil-heating cables or a heating pad. Fasten heating cables to a board or table and set a heat-conducting pad on top of the cables to distribute heat evenly. Set cuttings and seedlings in shallow flats or growing trays on top of the heat-conducting pad. The added heat speeds root growth when soil temperature is below 65ºF (18ºC).

Soil heating cables cost much less than soil heating pads but must be installed, whereas the pads are ready to use. Most commercial nurseries carry cables, and hydroponic stores carry heating pads. When rooting clones, a heating pad or cables virtually ensure success and expedite root growth.
Cold soils slows water and nutrient uptake and stifles growth. Growers often overwater when the soil is too cold or the room cools unexpectedly, which further slows growth. Pots on cold concrete floors stay as cold as the concrete, which is always colder than the ambient temperature. Increase soil temperature by moving pots up off the floor a few inches. Set them on an insulating board or piece of Styrofoam™.

Soil temperatures that climb above 75ºF (39ºC) dehydrate roots, and at higher temperatures the roots actually cook! It is relatively easy to heat the soil in a pot. If the light or any heat source is too close to small pots, it can easily heat up the outside layer of soil where the majority of the feeder roots are located. Once destroyed, roots take one or two weeks to grow back. Two weeks accounts for one quarter of the flowering cycle!

The more feeder root hairs there are to absorb water and nutrients, the faster and stronger plants will grow. Once roots go beyond their comfort zone, they send stress signals to foliage and stomata via harmones to close and conserve moisture.

Oxygen is essential for clones that are growing roots. Water holds under one percent dissolved oxygen at 70ºF (21ºC). Bump the temperature up to 85ºF (29ºC) and it holds less than 0.5 percent oxygen.

Root temperatures below 40ºF (4ºC) make water expand, which causes cell damage. Temperatures above 92ºF (33ºC) cause excessive vapor pressure within the roots, which can cause damage. At high temperatures roots send stress signals to shut the leaves down before damage can occur.

For when you are around harvest time use a jewlers eye to look at the trichomes:


and infestations can ruin a crop fast, know how to fix it:
http://forums.cannab...214#Post1472214

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Action is not a matter of right and wrong. It is only when action is partial, not total, that there is right and wrong.-Bruce Lee
The greatest friendship is that which the mind itself is respected. The information not shown to you, diminishes awareness, consciousness.CONSCIOUSNESS=FREEDOM
If you don't give a damn we don't give a fuck! Hey -Lil John

#11 ineffable420

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 02:19 PM

hows it goin snake?

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Action is not a matter of right and wrong. It is only when action is partial, not total, that there is right and wrong.-Bruce Lee
The greatest friendship is that which the mind itself is respected. The information not shown to you, diminishes awareness, consciousness.CONSCIOUSNESS=FREEDOM
If you don't give a damn we don't give a fuck! Hey -Lil John

#12 Pro Cannabis

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 10:17 AM

Great advice ineffable420 smile

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#13 ineffable420

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 11:45 AM

Thanks man, i got a lot of stuff scattered about here, some of it is stickied in various sections.

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Action is not a matter of right and wrong. It is only when action is partial, not total, that there is right and wrong.-Bruce Lee
The greatest friendship is that which the mind itself is respected. The information not shown to you, diminishes awareness, consciousness.CONSCIOUSNESS=FREEDOM
If you don't give a damn we don't give a fuck! Hey -Lil John