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hydrogen peroxide for fungus gnat removal


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#1 SirYesSir08

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Posted 21 May 2009 - 06:24 PM

So, yesterday I decided to make a 5:1 water:H2O2 mix.

I thought I would pour it on my rockwool to kill the fungus gnat larva feeding on my plants roots.

It appears that the gnats have been destroyed, I couldn't find a single one today. All the leaves are drooping though. My plants do not look happy at all.

Maybe I'm a dumbass, but I figured the H2o2 wouldn't hurt the plants, considering people add it to their reservoirs, and it degrades to water.

How much damage does H2O2 cause to plants? Will they bounce back?

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#2 Going Bald

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 05:59 AM

The 5:1 was a overkill and while it will kill the gnats and larvae, it will not help prevent a re-infestation.
I read where only as much as 2-3 tablespoons to a gallon of water will kill the gnats and oxygenate of the root zone.

For a long term solution I would suggest using Bacillus thuringiensis
It's used to control all larvae, from mosquitoes to canker worms and it won't harm your plants if you over do it.
Until then, the damage to the roots has been done by the H2O2. Flush them well with plain water and squeeze out the excess while they reform new roots or else you may run into root rot problems.

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#3 Belleville_Rick

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 08:07 AM

Hey Going Bald, when you say this "I read where only as much as 2-3 tablespoons to a gallon of water will kill the gnats and oxygenate of the root zone" do you mean that you're adding the H202 to the reservoir?

I have a drip system and soil.

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#4 Going Bald

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 08:36 AM

Nope. I only use H2O2 as a last resort if I'm having root zone issues with individual plants.
I'm of the opinion that if you have enough water movement/agitation/aeration, you shouldn't need to supplement with H2O2.
Along those same lines. Water temperatures determine dissolved oxygen content too. The warmer the water, the less dissolved oxygen or DO, it will hold.
University of Florida-DO for fish.
Quote:
High Water Temperature

Warm water is much less capable of holding oxygen gas in solution than cool water. For example, water that is 90° F can only hold 7.4 mg/L DO at saturation, whereas water that is 45° F can hold 11.9 mg/L DO at saturation. This physical phenomenon puts the fish in double jeopardy because at high water temperatures their metabolic rates increase, hence their physiologic demand for oxygen increases.

I also won't use H202 because I will use some organic additives in my hydro, like mychorriza.
I read the H2O2 gnat control on a few generic garden sites but mainly used for soil based media.

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#5 Belleville_Rick

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 08:50 AM

Ok I think that's what I mean.

I mean, I have a similar problem, very severe, and I've added H202 to my reservoir/drip soil system today at a rate of 2 tblspn per gallon. I flushed with insecticide soap yesterday and want to top it off with some H202 and water directly from my reservoir at the usual watering time.

Here's a link that discusses some of these issues:

http://www.gardenscu...oxide-h2o2.html

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#6 FarmerJoe

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 12:29 PM

I use Hydrogen Peroxide....one table spoon to a gallon. Its always to start out low and if more is needed to add more untill you find out what your plants can take. Also are you guys using food grade hydrogen peroxide or the stuff you get at department stores and pharmacies? Food grade is the way to go, i hear the others have stabilizers and what not. Another thing i do is after a few waterings with regular water i will mix in a cup of whole milk with a gallon of water and water and mist plants with the solution...they love the calcium. After that my plants always bounced back and were healthy as can be! Hope this helps!

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#7 SirYesSir08

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 02:32 PM

You were right, Going Bald.

That was definitely overkill. A lot of the leaves on my plants have turned golden brown and crispy. The damage seems to be done now, and they appear to be recovering.

To add insult to injury, there are more gnats than ever now, just as you predicted.

I picked up some predatory nematodes at the local grow shop today to put an end to these little motherfuckers.

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#8 Belleville_Rick

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Posted 23 May 2009 - 07:36 AM

Cool idea to get the predatory nematodes. My brother has something like that on his lawn, to keep the June Bugs and larvae (grubs) killed off.

So, you have an indoor grow? Aren't you worried about these predatory nematodes getting in your shit at home? Like, they're bugs, and they're in your house...what's up with that? Won't they be another nuisance?

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#9 WeedWitch420.1

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Posted 23 May 2009 - 06:23 PM

Predatory nemetodes are microscopic and can only live in a moist medium.

They are not bugs, they are tiny non-segmented worms:


I can't foresee them "escaping" to infest your home.

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-*witchy*


#10 Belleville_Rick

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Posted 24 May 2009 - 08:34 AM

Thank goodness. Wouldn't want 'em flying up the nose or anything!

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#11 SirYesSir08

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Posted 24 May 2009 - 11:54 AM

Haha, yeah. Once the gnats are dead, they won't have any food left, and they will die.

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#12 Belleville_Rick

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Posted 24 May 2009 - 07:02 PM

Kill 'em all, even the worms. Then do it all again. I love it.

I need something - dunno if H202 is gonna do it. Leaves are still yellowish. Using about 1 tbspn per gallon in a 19 gallon reservoir. Increased the ferts to 75% of full feeding. No change after 2-3 days.

I might have to get some of those worms. I want BIG freaking buds and this could be the second disaster.

Note: If one of those predatory nematodes comes back and flies up my nose, or up my ass...there will be hell to pay. bong

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#13 SmedleyButler

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 01:17 PM

I've had my battles with fungus gnats. hey are tough to get rid of and it's difficult to keep them out if you do get rid of them. However I'd like to share a great tip for folks growing in dirt for keeping the little buggers at bay and preventing any new infections.

Spread roughly an inch of play sand on the top of your growing medium if your using dirt. Adult fungus gnats won't lay eggs in the soil when it's covered with sand. This breaks the life cycle of the gnats and prevent any re-infestation. If you do nothing but spread sand it will eliminate th gnats in 2-3 weeks time as the larva mature and there are no new replacements.

This method uses no poison and is a very effective and cheap out. The last bag of play sand I bought was about $3.50 and was available at all the big box hardware stores.

If your really gnat'ed up another non toxic way to combat them is to place a bowl with about an inch or so of apple vinegar with the plants Gnats like the smell and will be trapped when they land in the bowl and drown.

There's a couple of cheap non toxic routes you can go. I hope this helps out smile

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#14 0rlch0

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 06:21 PM

Good advice SB, i did all that and watered from the bottom by pouring the water into the bottoms of the pot so the top stayed pretty dry with the sand on top.. add some sticky traps and a few half cups of cold coffee and your room should clear out in no tme smile

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#15 SmedleyButler

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 06:57 PM

a few half cups of cold coffee and your room should clear out in no time smile


TY That will not only help cure a gnat problem it'll give me a great reason when Gramps chews me out and says "Why'd you leave all those coffee cups around? I can say "pest control" blah

Sticky traps are nice also. Mine are DIY and very inexpensive. I cut up a fly strip into small rectangles. The stick is a coffee stirrer or Popsicle stick (especially popular when I'm urging my daughter to eat more Popsicle's)and stick the piece on them to make my trap.

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#16 0rlch0

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Posted 14 July 2011 - 08:14 AM

lol, sounds like a plan.. glad i could get you out of trouble with Gramps!!

smile

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#17 nutogrow

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Posted 14 July 2011 - 10:31 AM

Adult fungus gnats don't hurt a thing. They just lay eggs that do the damage. Stickies for the adults is good. Go Gnats will kill the maggots. Also put tater slices on the top of your medium and then throw em away every other day for a lil while.(they will lay their eggs on the tater slices}. The stickies get the adults and with no new generations coming on, pretty soon they're gone.

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#18 Nozmirk

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Posted 14 July 2011 - 01:55 PM

Good idea with the tater slices.

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#19 PoohBurrMedz

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 02:36 AM

i use a cap full of hydrogen peroxide per liter if i have to use it at all. I usually use it every 4th watering just as alittle boost for the roots. with gnats, i use sand and potato slices as mentioned here and it works well.
Happy tokin'!

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#20 Lovevrythingreen

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 07:02 AM

I was told by a very wise member here to use 2ml/gal of FOOD grade 35%. not only will it oxygenate the roots, but for my DWC it keeps me from having to clean out my resevoir every/other week.

Genesis 22:2 "the tree of life, and the leaf of that tree, is for the healing of the nations."
God also declared he gave "every seed bearing herb to humanity" so why dont these religious politicians realize this, our founding fathers grew marijuana, the Decleration Of Independence was writted on hemp for petes sake!

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