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About Fred_the_Plumber

  • Rank
    Psycho Polymath
  • Birthday 11/07/1963

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Some nest in a tree
  • Interests
    model aircraft, boats... Physics, Audio Recording
  1. It has been a while... SInce my epic debate that if I recall correctly was the longest thread in CC history I had to distance myself for a while... I didn't think it would be years, though. In the meantime I have learned a whole lot about a huge variety of topics that all dovetail perfectly into my past experience and what is happening in the world behind the scenes. It is so cool to be the observer in all this craziness, sitting on the sidelines and watching it all unfold. If I ever get the chance, I really want to revert some seed back a few million years and see what the original plant was about. Problem is I don't have anywhere to grow them out at my current place.
  2. FRED the PLUMBER is back with technology that will blow your mind...

  3. Hey there folks... Fred here. Back after a very long hiatus. It's been a long strange trip, but one that has opened many doors and expanded my comprehension of life, the Universe and Everything. During my travels I have been exposed to some very interesting new technology that is both incredibly simple and incredibly complex at the same time. I have been studying it for several years and am teaching how to implement it in almost all walks of life. One of the most profound ways it can be applied is in agriculture and health. The results are almost instant and specifically in growing plants, the testing over the last year and a bit have shown not only between 50% and 300% increase in growth and yield, but also a robustness and tolerance for unfavorable conditions with ALL plants tested. With this technology we can reverse GMO seed back to the original genome and with extended applications, can even reverse the genetics right back to ancient forms. Tests on current wheat strains were reverted right back to the ancient grass they were derived from. I am seeking a group of Growers that want to bring this technology to their ops in whatever degree they feel comfortable. It is totally compatible with soil or hydro or even aquaponic. It is relatively inexpensive (pennies per crop) but does require some simple but advanced chemistry. It has the potential to completely replace ANY nutrient additive, or simply augment what you are currently using. No pH issues, no salts buildup, none of the current issues growers are having while simplifying schedules and generating a far superior harvest. As an aside to some of the current tests we have seen fantastic growth in direct sun plants that do not get nearly enough light. Certainly something that can be a persistent problem in this community. I have spent the last year and a half working with the originating organization as Tech Support and Teaching, bringing the understanding of the processes and production procedures to Grandmothers, Housewives, Children and totally non-technical folks. It is time to bring it to the Cannabis community. This is a "hands on" teaching that I can do over the net or here at my home if one wishes to go that route, though, over the net is preferred. Unfortunately, being that this has been my livelihood for the last year and a half, and the fact that it is now totally up to me to generate an income from other sources, I do have to charge for the teachings. The fees are really small, $15.00/hour/student or less if there are groups... Groups are a much better way to learn this tech as it is partly consciousness and emotionally based energetics and the energy of a group is dramatically higher than the sum of the individuals. I can answer some basic questions here, but for those of you that want to get into this in a big way, please go to plasmabasics(dot)net and set up an appointment for a skype meeting. I can guarantee that what you spend on training will be returned in your first harvest without a doubt. For those that require much more security but still want to learn, I can offer one on one training through whatever communication portal you prefer. The older and more seasoned of the Forums here will know me as a straight answer and honest individual. I'm sure I can help them double or triple their yields too... Looking forward to helping you all get yields beyond your dreams. Peace... Fred.
  4. Just tell em you've had the runs for a week... and offer them a sample. LOL Peace... Fred.
  5. If you want to go that way and you are creative, a red ceramic plant pot (without a hole) will filter down to sub micron levels. You may need to create some sort of gasket on a lid so you can put some pressure to it and get the increased flow. Careful, pressure in a confined space that ruptures can cause leaks in the operator. Peace... Fred.
  6. I had a similar problem some years ago and it turned out to be sodium buildup from a water softener. This can also occur from slow release fertilizer (eg. Miracle Grow). Some regular ferts have some aspects that don't flush very well. A student of mine just learned that a week or so ago. I checked out Bee One and found very little information about it. It was listed as fert, not nute, so if that is correct, it requires a bit different handling. Anyway.... I would suggest that you repot those girls into a balanced soilless. Get rid of as much of the existing soil as you can by gently wiggling your fingers on the root to break away the clumps. You can do this under warm running water too (they love it if you are gentle). Water gently and foliar feed with a high quality kelp organic until the nitrogen levels rise and they are strong enough to get growing again. Be sure to have them back under low clone light to reduce the energy they expend. They should pick up in about a week if the problem was buildup in the soil, but if it winds up being a fungus, it may not go away. Next option would be to wash them clean of soil and drop them in a bubbler for a few weeks. You will need to be very gentle with the pH and nutes for the first week. When they start to green up again, you can either replant in good soil or keep on with the hydro. A rubbermade bubbler is really easy to build. Peace... Fred. Oh, ps... When you flushed, what did the runoff look and smell like?
  7. Gbo, you will find that plants are plants. If you can grow tomatoes you can grow cannabis. Obviously there are some differences, but the core basics are all the same. You can also mix bottles and tap water to reduce the contaminants and reduce the purchases. Lots of ways around this minor problem.
  8. 200 isn't that bad. The sodium and chlorine content concerns me though. The chlorine is easy... just let it sit... It will evaporate overnight. There are lots of folks that have little water coolers in their kitchens... That is a really good way to bury purchasing bottled water. I did that for several years and never had anyone even question. But even using your water, properly aged and aerated should still produce. One thing though... The water content will limit the types of additives and require a bit more flushing than RO water. I would suggest that you test it. Put one plant in with city water and see how it does. Let us know what issues arise and we can formulate a remedy.
  9. that clone has no roots. By the size of it, there should be at least 6 inches if not more hanging out of that pot. Foliate feed with a high N kelp (hydro nutes may work too). reduce the light to give the poor girl a break till she grows her feet back. as for why there are no roots, it could be a number of things. Peace... Fred.
  10. I know a lot of folks feel this is probably going to be whitewashed and buried before it sees light, but we can change that. Make this huge and public and it simply cannot be made to "go away". Peace... Fred.
  11. Thanks LabRat... It's not really about money. The stuff is out there all over the place. The trick is to be at the right place at the right time, or get good at scrounging. That's my saving grace. I'm a great scrounge. If it's not tied down and could reasonably be called trash, it's fair game. I love re-purposing... Especially when there are folks around that don't seem to grasp the concept. The looks you get when you pull off the seemingly impossible out of junk found around the area makes the effort worthwhile. LOL.
  12. Well I have been working at getting wood for a while and we are all set now. I'm sore and tired. But still working at the machine too... I have an issue with the emitters in that the 1/4 inch feed tube is too restricting and only allowing the emitters to spit and cough... Not a nice fine spray like the pump tests. So I''m going to try to find something that I can plug the end of a 1/2 inch tubing that will allow me to thread in the emitter the same as I have it now. I will have to drill bigger holes in the 8 inch pipe, but the same concept as I have now should work the treat. Here are some shots of the mockup. From both ends, first, the nested end... It fits really nice even though I didn't cut the arc accurately. I just used a compass to scribe a line around the pipe and didn't worry about the slight parabola(?) needed. You can see that I don't have the half caps in the one end of these pipes yet. They are coming... Here is what it looks like in the drain end, so far... Still going over some details like cradles to hold it all up, mounts for holding the big pipes in the nesting pipe and that sort of thing. Oh, and acquiring another 450 gph pond pump is fairly high on the list... Here is the system it will be replacing with some plants that are just starting to finish up. These are a pure Indica, probably heritage Kush by the look and taste. And Yes, I am having a bit of problems with them at the moment. They are really fussy about nute concentration and I hit them a bit hard. Yeah, I know... Not quite up to my reputation... But it was a test of a new system and I really didn't try too hard to max these girls. I also didn't veg them at all.... As soon as they rooted, they were in the flower room. You can see the huge difference in final plant caused by not letting the rootball get established before pushing them to flower... Not a failure at all in my books. I now know that this strain needs time to recover that is a bit longer than some of the general hybrid strains. Any plumbing ideas for the emitters you folks want to share?? I'm all ears and getting a few ideas is really helpful when working to improve the system as a whole. Peace... Fred.
  13. sorry folks. Been out cutting firewood for three families over the last while. At least we are all set up now. All I have left is to split mine and be warm. I think I have the funds to finish at least one machine in short order, and the current crop is a few weeks away, so that will fund the second. More as I get able to. Peace... Fred.
  14. I was bitten by the aero bug and really liked the simplicity of the “pipe dream” system. So I built one. I actually built two. One 3 tube, 12 site system and one 2 tube, 6 site system. I have two spaces to fill both 5X5. and have been noodeling how to do that efficiently. I am a dyed in the wool fan of flood and drain for the forgiveness of it, as I usually live where electricity is a bit less than reliable, but I decided to bite the bullet and go for the SOTA system, or at least as close as I could produce. There was a lot of mental gymnastics at first, working out pipe size, configuration, pump and plumbing requirements and then sourcing the materials. I really wanted to go with an 8 inch pipe so I could scale up the plants later as well as opening up the machine for other plants, veggies like vine tomatoes, cucumbers, squash and others that generate a huge root system. But where to get 8 inch pipe without paying hundreds per length and get a really good, strong pipe? How about new neighborhood construction sites? The sewer pipe they are putting in is absolutely perfect and they screw up enough pieces to make for awesome pickings in the trash pile. It took a few sites to find enough of the lengths I needed and even a few bonus surprises… I found a whole bunch of lengths of the same pipe, but of 12 and 18 inch IDs. A 4 foot long piece of 18 inch id, ½ inch wall PVC sewer pipe will make an awesome compost bin. So I have a spare room full of various lengths of heavy wall PVC pipe and need to come up with a way to put it all together into a system. I hit up the local irrigation place and checked on prices of fittings, but when he said it was $27 for an end cap, I abandoned that route. So back to the drawing board. Back to the research. That’s when I decided to go with an integrated reservoir that doubles to hold up one end of the pipes. All three pipes in the big system go into the big roughneck tote reservoir through big holes in the side. It reduces the volume of the reservoir to about 10 gallons, which works, but it would be nice to have a bit more. After running that system for a bit, giving me some time to think some more, I came up with a more efficient system for my space. There were a few problems that I am working on and have almost figured out how to solve them. I guess the biggest problem I ran across is getting the water from the pump to the roots in a decent fashion. Seems like a simple thing… Not really. The emitters require quite a bit of pressure to work even halfway. Every inch of tubing eats some of the dynamic pressure (pressure while flowing) because of friction that builds up over length. With my 450 GPH pond pump attached to a manifold like in the EZ-Cloner with 12 emitters, it sprays the walls and everything for 4 feet is wet. But add 3 feet of ¼ inch spaghetti tubing before the emitter and it barely trickles out. A word of experience; Use small diameter tubing ONLY if necessary and ONLY for as short a run as possible. I haven’t been that far with this system yet, but cleaning is gonna be a bitch. I realized after I filled the reservoir that to get the system out for cleaning, I have to flip the whole thing on its side to have the room I need to pull the pipes out of the side of the reservoir. I guess I’ll have to get a wet vac now too… LOL. The new system solves that by having the grow pipes simply lift off their cradles and out the door. The new system will still have 3 pipes, but each pipe will have 6 sites instead of 4 that I have now. The extra space is gained by removing the reservoir and replacing it with another length of pipe perpendicular to the other three. There are half moon shaped cuts in the new pipe that nest the ends of the three grow pipes nicely about halfway down their height. It was a challenge to cut those accurately and will likely need to make a gasket out of silicon to seal out the light. This gives me almost 18 inches of new space in my room to extend the grow pipes into. The drain pipe will end at a 5 gallon bucket to catch the runoff and that bucket will be plumbed to a remote reservoir outside the room. So now that the design is worked out, gotta make it happen. The initial problem was end caps. How to seal up the end, make it waterproof and tough enough to withstand the kind of abuse I will likely put it through. I thought of many ways but decided on 5/8” plywood disks coated with pro grade black silicon. I cut the disks a tiny bit big and custom fit each one to a gentle tap in with a hammer. Between the good friction fit and a quarter tube of silicon, they aren’t going anywhere and the first machine, which used 3/8” OSB instead of plywood hasn’t leaked a bit. The end caps on the ends that nest in the drain pipe will only cover ~2/3rds of the end of the pipe, allowing a really large port for water and roots to use. I use black silicon instead of clear so I can see any spots I have missed. It would really suck to go to all this work and have the ends leak or rot out in a few crops. After some experimenting and careful measurements, I found that a letter “A” drill is exactly perfect for the ¼” spaghetti tubing to go through the heavy wall PVC. It is just the right sized hole that the tubing slips through easily, water can’t splash back through and when you screw an emitter into the tubing, it expands the tubing to be a nice tight fit in the hole. My emitters are positioned at 12 o’clock and right up against the wall of the pipe, just like they were screwed into the pipe itself. Just be sure to drill slowly with low RPM or you will melt the plastic and mess up your hole. Gonna do a bit more writing later, but here’s some pics of what I’m talking about. If anyone wants to know anything specific or something I’ve missed, feel free to ask. Peace… Fred.
  15. 3/4 inch is pretty big pipe. Overkill unless you are pushing 300+ gallons an hour. 1/2 inch pvc pipe and fittings ( the white/cream color stuff ) will do you very well and be a lot cheaper. Be nice with the glue... No need to get it all over everything. Use a small disposable brush and get the glue only where you need it. PVC drills and taps very well. The barb fitting you would be using would likely be a 1/4-20NC thread. Really common. Taps are cheap and easy to get, and use a #9 drill instead of a #7 (proper drill size) to provide more material at the root of the thread to help seal and lock the thread, because it's so short as well as compensating for the likelihood of oversize holes. I know that a few thousands of an inch don't seem to be much, but it makes a difference, and you are cutting plastic. A decent machine tap will cut that like butter, even with an undersized hole. Get the basic 2 flute machine tap and use a stabilizing block with a hole for the tap to go through so you get it nice and straight every time. You have little material to work with and a sloppy hole will leak and be a problem... Drill and tap for barb fittings on flat surfaces if you can. For example, terminate a short "T" run with a glue on cap, and install the barb fitting on the end of that cap. Much easier to fix a leak on a flat surface than a convex one. Much easier to drill and tap too. Using the smaller pipe and glue on caps as home made adapters also will reduce the spillage if the system fails. All that could come apart would be a small, low flow fitting rather than the chance of a 3/4 inch pipe coming open and draining your res in a minute or two... LOL The pipe is easy to do and safe. Use the same stuff that the house is plumbed with (other than copper), like brass fittings, pvc pipe and joints...( or Pex) Done right, will be awesome. Also, if you chose to switch over to aero, the same system of pipes will work for the higher pressure. Pex is really nice but you can't use it as the structure to hold up the plumbing so much. I find it to be great if you are stapling it to something... not so good for structure. Short runs of PVC off of a trunk (T's and pipe) will support itself for the most part. So while you lose the flexibility of Pex, you gain stability and load carrying capability. Too much info? Sorry, new strain makes me forget to shut up. Peace... Fred.