Unregistered

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About Unregistered

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  • Birthday 01/01/1960

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Alberta, Canada
  • Interests The geeky end of the computer, electronics, and science spectrums.
  • Occupation Slacker
  1. MH and its Imact on Trich Development

    Except for the pollen catching bit, ya, seems most reasonable.... terpenes will battle mold/bacteria/viruses, organisms with a nervous system would be affected by the cannabinoids.
  2. It is what it is

    What's worked best for me to strengthen stems has been manually bending them while they are stiffening up. Grab a petiole near the growing tip and form a bend, then pull towards the base of the stem to slide the bend along it. Doing this every couple days while in veg growth seems to all that is needed. When ('cause it will happen eventually) you break a stem you can close the break by taping the stem; give it a few days undisturbed to heal, then be gentle around it for a week or so. In the early stages of flowering I routinely pull branches down from the tip to strengthen the junction at the main stem. Damage done by bending the stem releases a chemical which signals the plant to thicken up the stem wall. The wind does it outdoors, but getting that much force via air indoors isn't really practical in a tent or small room.
  3. Transplanting Questions

    I think there are lots of great examples of root bound plants from that search. Mostly you get to see the range of what people consider "root bound"... What really matters though is not whether it's a 1/4" or 1/2" thick mat or if once or twice around the pot dictates root bound, but what's the answer to, `is it having the desired effect on the plant?' If you're looking to restrict growth (small space) or maintain size (mother plant) then a little to lot of root boundiness is probably good. Anything that slows down an autoflower plant is likely to cut into yield. In most cases, it [exactly when you transplant] is not gonna matter much because it just means a little more time to finish.
  4. Transplanting Questions

    root bound plants in containers
  5. Transplanting Questions

    Nope, not root bound ... the dark bits on the bottom and sides are soil, not layers of roots or long roots wound around the container; and it only needed watering every 3-4 days, not every 1-2 with some wilting between - layered and/or wound roots is "root bound" and a lack of moisture holding capacity is the sign that it's a problem. That's just a container as full of roots as I expect at the end of life, more or less and I'd be thinking I'd misjudged the size.
  6. Transplanting Questions

    [Thanks; lower res does a good job of hiding blurry, and gives everything a kinda appealing soft-focus look. ] You can still see soil and no roots are wound around the container, so, not root bound for me. "Transplant shock" may be another thing we'd disagree about; I consider any interruption in top growth as shock, someone else may only consider the worst case (wilting) as shock - both are probably extremes. <shrug> Good thing plants are adaptable, the "right" way covers a broad range of practices and unless you're killing/stunting them you're probably not doing it "wrong".
  7. Transplanting Questions

    I never let them get to where roots are wrapping around the pot if it is not in its final container - I just don't see any point in making extra work for myself, and interrupting top growth, by leaving transplanting so long that you need to disturb the root ball so it doesn't risk ending up root bound. The first image is the root ball of a 4' plant in a 12" container of soil (~1/3 ea sand, sand/clay loam, old used potting soil), transplanted once from a 3-1/4" pot; it had been in the 12" ~4 months. I wouldn't consider it root bound, but I would be wishing I'd caught it a little earlier if the plan had been to move it on to a larger container. I'm too lazy to get the axe and chop it in two, so you'll just have to take my word for it that root are distributed evenly through the root ball. It was the plant front-left in the second image, ~1 week before chopping.
  8. Transplanting Questions

    Ya, if you have an old plant you can trim out the oldest roots and re-pot with fresh soil to maintain it, but the plant will stop growing (transplant shock) until the root system recovers and grows new roots... not a deal though because you generally don't want lots of growth in a maintenance situation.
  9. The Downside to Feminized Seeds

    It sounds like there may be two flavours of feminized seed. The forced stuff Grow_Wizzard mentioned and those from the male flowers that often show up very late in a seedless grow, and the natural ones - I've only rarely seen a plant that didn't put out a male flower or two early into flowering. I've only ever grown feminized seed from natural early male flowers, and have not noticed any difference between those plants propensity to produce male flowers and the prior generation.
  10. Negative Effects of Light Leaks

    Apparently it is a specific wavelength of light (somewhere in the red-infrared range) which is required to activate the enzyme which fiddles with the molecule the influences/controls flowering, and it is not an immediate reaction - so brief flashes of light and light of the wrong wavelength shouldn't have an effect. The molecule(s) controlling flowering appear to be localized - you can flower individual branches without affecting the rest of the plant - so you'd need to illuminate a significant portion of the plant to have a significant effect. ...I'm thinking of major problems, like the plant re-vegging or very leafy buds (try a 13 14 hr dark period before worrying about light leaks for that last one though), I don't know about more subtle problems like an increase in hermaphroditic flowers though.
  11. Is Side Lighting Worth It?

    Yes... leaves will orientate themselves to catch the most light, and I've seen fan leaves laying vertically against the main stem (lower, runty branches had been removed) and doing well with only light reflected from the sides of the tent.
  12. Heat as a Negative Factor

    Hmm... the plants look "nicer" under cool/moist conditions than hot/dry, thicker/softer leaves with wider leaf blades. Keep in mind that indoor and outdoor are very different environments, and high temps are OK indoors if you are supplementing with CO2.
  13. Transplanting Questions

    Do you wait until the plant is root bound or just until the roots reach the outer edges of the container? To date, I’ve never gotten a plant to be root bound to the extent I see them in photos on forums or elsewhere. Do you wait until the plant is root bound or just until the roots reach the outer edges of the container? To date, I’ve never gotten a plant to be root bound to the extent I see them in photos on forums or elsewhere. You usually do not want the plant to get root bound, it stunts growth and necessitates... The second part of this is, do you break up the root ball prior to moving into the next sized container or not? I’ve always broken up the root ball. Am I wrong to do so? The second part of this is, do you break up the root ball prior to moving into the next sized container or not? I’ve always broken up the root ball. Am I wrong to do so? ...which leads to transplant shock. If you catch it just as the roots are starting to turn down the sides of the container you should be able to pull the plant with intact root ball out, then simply drop it into the larger container. No mess, little to no transplant shock, and only minor fussing... The soil needs to be at the right moisture level - too dry and the root ball falls apart, too wet and the roots can't support the weight. The fresh soil needs to be of similar texture, moisture holding capacity, and moisture level as what the plant is growing in - large differences can result in the roots not enthusiastically growing into the new medium. Everything should be laid out and ready to go before you start so that the actual transplant is done quickly.
  14. Done, and next in line

    In the first image, from left to right: Sweet Tooth AF, some Kush, Cheese AF. It was taken the day before chopping the Kush. The bulk of the Kush harvest comes next. 70g ready for storage. The containers are the small CannaVault vials one of my LPs uses; I'm liking them, don't know if they are supposed to be non-stick but I haven't noticed a build up of resin in them at all, fallen trichomes just wipe away. The last image is the current state of the Cheese and Sweet Tooth autoflowers. Sweet Tooth, or at least the top half of it, is ready to be chopped anytime (~20% amber), but after a day under the new CMH lamp (+ 8x T5HO) I noticed more odour coming off the plants so figured I'd let it go a little longer. Cheese is a week or two behind (unless the better lighting hurries it up.) Sweet Tooth AF: 11" container, a bit over 2' tall Kush: 12" container, just under 3' tall Cheese AF: 10" container, ~2.5' tall
  15. I suspect that Google knows me best.