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  1. Today
  2. The Downside to Feminized Seeds

    It sounds like there may be two flavours of feminized seed. The forced stuff Grow_Wizzard mentioned and those from the male flowers that often show up very late in a seedless grow, and the natural ones - I've only rarely seen a plant that didn't put out a male flower or two early into flowering. I've only ever grown feminized seed from natural early male flowers, and have not noticed any difference between those plants propensity to produce male flowers and the prior generation.
  3. Negative Effects of Light Leaks

    Apparently it is a specific wavelength of light (somewhere in the red-infrared range) which is required to activate the enzyme which fiddles with the molecule the influences/controls flowering, and it is not an immediate reaction - so brief flashes of light and light of the wrong wavelength shouldn't have an effect. The molecule(s) controlling flowering appear to be localized - you can flower individual branches without affecting the rest of the plant - so you'd need to illuminate a significant portion of the plant to have a significant effect. ...I'm thinking of major problems, like the plant re-vegging or very leafy buds (try a 13 14 hr dark period before worrying about light leaks for that last one though), I don't know about more subtle problems like an increase in hermaphroditic flowers though.
  4. Is Side Lighting Worth It?

    Yes... leaves will orientate themselves to catch the most light, and I've seen fan leaves laying vertically against the main stem (lower, runty branches had been removed) and doing well with only light reflected from the sides of the tent.
  5. Heat as a Negative Factor

    Hmm... the plants look "nicer" under cool/moist conditions than hot/dry, thicker/softer leaves with wider leaf blades. Keep in mind that indoor and outdoor are very different environments, and high temps are OK indoors if you are supplementing with CO2.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Transplanting Questions

    Do you wait until the plant is root bound or just until the roots reach the outer edges of the container? To date, I’ve never gotten a plant to be root bound to the extent I see them in photos on forums or elsewhere. Do you wait until the plant is root bound or just until the roots reach the outer edges of the container? To date, I’ve never gotten a plant to be root bound to the extent I see them in photos on forums or elsewhere. You usually do not want the plant to get root bound, it stunts growth and necessitates... The second part of this is, do you break up the root ball prior to moving into the next sized container or not? I’ve always broken up the root ball. Am I wrong to do so? The second part of this is, do you break up the root ball prior to moving into the next sized container or not? I’ve always broken up the root ball. Am I wrong to do so? ...which leads to transplant shock. If you catch it just as the roots are starting to turn down the sides of the container you should be able to pull the plant with intact root ball out, then simply drop it into the larger container. No mess, little to no transplant shock, and only minor fussing... The soil needs to be at the right moisture level - too dry and the root ball falls apart, too wet and the roots can't support the weight. The fresh soil needs to be of similar texture, moisture holding capacity, and moisture level as what the plant is growing in - large differences can result in the roots not enthusiastically growing into the new medium. Everything should be laid out and ready to go before you start so that the actual transplant is done quickly.
  8. MH and its Imact on Trich Development

    I recently found an old, 2012, Skunk magazine that I'd never read and there is an article by The Rev in there about using a particular type of MH light bulb for the whole grow. They run off a 400w magnetic ballast and are called the EYE Clean-Arc MT400D/HOR. Check out the spectrum diagram for that bulb. Full light right across the board and not a bunch of different spikes. I wish they made them in 1000w as I have that ballast and only one 400w MH magnetic. Got 3 - 400w HPS ballasts too with lights for them. The Eye Hortilux conversion bulb I bought for flowering with my 1000MH was $170 and I bet that EYE would be less than half that. EYE Lighting and EYE Hortilux are different companies now I believe. Ceramic Metal Halide bulbs have a similar spectrum and some, if not all, run off of HPS magnetic ballasts or digital. Leaving your veg light on during the stretch helps to limit the stretch but won't make any difference to trichome production at that stage if you switch to HPS for the balance of flowering. May help to switch back to MH for the last couple weeks tho but I'm not sure.
  9. GLR Interruption Question

    The T-5s will do the job just fine, A couple of CFLs would work too. Just has to be bright enough to keep them in veg. Like Grow Wiz said it's hard on the HID system to be flipped on and off like that.
  10. The Downside to Feminized Seeds

    Some swear by feminized seeds, when you understand the process of making feminized seeds you can see the issues. The process is you either stress the plant with chemicals, lighting, or other methods to get the plant to change it's sex expression. The result is the plant hermaphrodites (hermi). Which in my opinion weakens the genetics. I revege a lot of my plants, I put them out in the ground in April so they will start to flower and then transition back into veg. That is very stressful on the plant. If any genetics hermi, that plant gets pulled and those genetics get fed to the bird. What I do is as soon as you see the main stem nodes alter. They come out even up to the 6-7th node, they they stagger, watch the plants closely they will usually show sex expression at this time. If they don't shut off your lights for a couple days then go back to the normal veg light schedule, this will cause them to show sex expressions without going into flower. You will usually only see a couple of calyxs or balls form to show what sex you have. Yea you are using up the light, but it's only wasted on a % of your grow, you were going to have the lights on anyway. Start more seeds than you need to ensure enough females. Save the best male and female to make more seeds...peace...
  11. Negative Effects of Light Leaks

    Light leaks allow the plants to hermi, and can extend the flower time. At least that's what I've read. If you have weak genetics (feminized seeds) you run a higher chance of the plant hermi. Which will cause seeds and other issues. I totally hear what you are saying, I have 2 street lights and the moon that put some light onto my outdoor garden. and I get some nice flowers...
  12. MH and its Imact on Trich Development

    What does the outdoor season do? In the spring the sun starts moving closer and the days grow longer, thus the plants grow in veg mode. After the solestace, (longest day of the year) the sun moves away and the light fades intensity and duration. Seems your observation would be correct, Since you have 2 400 W fixtures, have you considered changing bulbs or if you have the room run both fixtures and only kick the MH light on for about 4 hours in the middle of the 12 on cycle? Just a thought on my end. would be an interesting test to see yields and flower structure. May cost a bit more but if it improves the yield it may be worth it. Again I only grow outdoors. so I'm not an indoor expert.
  13. Is Side Lighting Worth It?

    More light = better flowers. I would use one bulb of each color in each fixture so you don't have to change out bulbs (better spectrum) when you change your MH to SH for flowering. The way to test this is grow the same strains in the same conditions and only use the T-5's above for one grow, the next grow put them on the side see which grow yields more, and which has the better flower construction. I believe the side lighting will actually help, any green part of the plant has the ability to convert the light into chlorophyll so even the stems can do it, just not as efficient as the leaves do. Hope this helps..
  14. GLR Interruption Question

    Farang, While I'm not an indoor grower, from my understanding it's having the light come on for an hour in the middle of the dark cycle that keeps the plant from going into flower. Depending on the size of your grow space (Whole garage, vs. small tent) the T-5's should supply enough light to keep them in veg. It's not good for the HID's to ballast up for an hour and then shut down. It's not the best for the fluorescents either but those ballasts and bulbs are a ton cheaper than the HID's. I would use only the T-5's and watch them close if they look like they are wanting to go into flower kick on the HID every 3rd day or so just to keep them in veg. But I believe the T-5's will do the trick...
  15. Dried cannabis price scan, Jan 11 2017 A detailed ACMPR price comparison from data taken on January 11th. By Brad Martin January 16, 2017 Kade's Kush Maricann Cannabinoid content and the price of medical cannabis in Canada vary with licensed producer, location of production, and production method. We track cannabinoid content and pricing data for all available dried cannabis flowers and milled blends to understand how these prices change over time, and to highlight offerings with the best value. The data for this summary was taken January 11th 2017 (Delta 9 figures January 10 current). Publicly available information on producer websites and newsletters was logged for all available dried cannabis flower and blends in the ACMPR. THC and CBD content and non-compassionate price were logged for each strain and, in the cases where ranges of cannabinoids were given, midpoint averages were used. For the producers offering volume discounts, we’ve used the cost for the smallest size available. In cases where the same strains were offered by two different providers, and for strains that were available in whole flower and blended form, data was logged for each instance. All flower and blended dried cannabis offerings were categorized according to cannabinoid content. Offerings with ratios of 1.4+ THC:CBD were considered THC offerings. Those with 1.4-0.3 THC:CBD were considered 1:1 offerings, while the remainder (<0.3 THC:CBD) were considered CBD offerings. There were 161 blends and flowers available from the 21 Licensed Producers in the ACMPR, up from 155 offerings from December 16 2016. The average number of selections per producer is 7 — no change from last month. Most producers carried at least 5 THC offerings, some doubled this average (Hydropothecary and Whistler) while others had one (Aurora, Mettrum) or none (Tweed). Five percent of strains had significant amounts of CBD and negligible amounts of CBD, offered from a third of the producers (Aphria, Aurora, Bedrocan, CanniMed, Canntrust, Hydropothecary, MedReleaf and Tweed). On average, each producer carried a 1:1 strain with significant amounts of THC and CBD, while some had as high as 3 choices (AB Cann, Canna Farms, Hydropothecary, MariCann and Tweed). Hydropothecary has several new offerings included in the scan this week. Notably, they offer a decarboxylated cannabis product that has been milled and prepared for oral consumption via the provided capsules. Of the 161 currently available offerings, 123 of them (76%) contained significant amounts of THC to CBD. As noted above, 8 of the 161 (5.0%) were found to have significant amounts of CBD with negligible amounts of CBD. The remaining 19% were found to be 1:1 offerings with comparable cannabinoid content. The average price per gram for a gram of cannabis in the ACMPR was found to be $9.09, up $0.07 from our December 16 2016 scan. Looking at price with respect to cannabinoid content, the average prices for 100mg of THC rose slightly from $5.42 to $5.72. Per producer, prices ranged from $3.45 to $9.50 per 100 mg, with Redecan, Aurora and Bedrocan showing lowest averages for 100mg of THC. This month, 24% of THC offerings (30 of the 123 offerings) claimed above 20% THC. The average THC content for THC offerings was 17%. Prices are typically higher for CBD strains: the average price of 100mg of CBD was $7.44 this month, down from $8.14 last month. Average prices per producer ranged from $4.21 to $10.34, with Aurora and CanniMed being the lowest cost providers. Cannabinoid prices from 1:1 offerings have also increased. For 100mg of THC/CBD from a 1:1 strain, the average price is $5.73, up from $5.47 last month. Producer averages ranged from $3.35 to $10.20, with Redecan showing the lowest average prices. This summary tracks cannabinoid content and price from around the ACMPR. Much of the data presented here is shown as a summarized producer average comprised of several offerings. For strain specific information, as well as information on each producer, check out Lift and read the reviews in the review section. lift
  16. Hydro Nutrients Question

    I learned to grow indoors, in an RDWC system that requires constant close monitoring. Outdoors i use the same nutes, growing in large (100 or 150 gallon) bags filled with a soiless mix (ProMix Organic Herb & Vegetable); and fed hydro nutes (Advanced Nutrients). AN makes a pH Perfect formulation that works over an extended pH range so i rarely bother checking solution pH as it doesn't recirculate; every few weeks i will check 'soil' pH. Daily i look at my plants though and adjust nutes if i see a problem starting. The AN recipe i use has some organic components such as Nirvana; Piranha; Tarantula, and, biologically active components like SensiZym; they're designed to work together, but convenience comes at a higher cost. As LR said, mix nutes and apply right after andbe careful adding in supplements that may skew your mineral ratios as you can cause nutrient lockouts or nute burn. Many growers will use a basic recipe for a few grows and only add in supplements once they're comfortable with their method. If you jump in with a complex nutrient regime before knowing the basics, solving nutrient issues will be difficult.
  17. Hydro Nutrients Question

    High Farang Hydro nutes can go in right away. Don't mix them up until you're ready to water your plants tho. And if you're still going to use tea you should be careful about how much you use. Which nutes did you get? And what kind of soilless mix have you using?
  18. Global Warming is not due to human contribution of

    http://money.cnn.com/2017/01/12/investing/exxon-loses-climate-change-ruling/index.html ExxonMobil has lost a key battle in an investigation into whether the oil giant misled the public about the dangers of climate change. A Massachusetts judge orderedExxon(XOM)on Wednesday to hand over more than four decades of the company's climate change research. The court rejected Exxon's emergency motion to kill the demand from Massachusetts Attorney General Maura Healey, who is investigating allegations the company ignored internal scientific research going back to the 1970s. The ruling came on the same day that longtime Exxon boss Rex Tillerson was being grilled by Congress about the company's climate change tactics at his secretary of state hearing. Tillerson, whostepped down last month as CEOafter a decade in charge,repeatedly ducked questionsabout the issue from U.S. Senators. Asked if he lacks the knowledge to respond or is simply refusing to answer, Tillerson said, "A little of both." Last April, Massachusetts demanded Exxon turn over documents going back to 1976 related to the company's study of carbon emissions and the effects of those emissions on the climate. This week Suffolk County Superior Court Judge Heidi Brieger upheld the attorney general's demand. "Exxon must now end its obstructive tactics and come clean about whether it misled Massachusetts consumers and investors about what it knew about climate change, its causes and effects," the Massachusetts attorney general's office said in a statement. However, Exxon didn't immediately signal whether it's going to comply with the order. "We are reviewing the ruling to determine next steps," Exxon said in a statement. Related: Tillerson ducks Exxon climate change allegations Exxon is still awaiting a ruling in Texas, where the company has filed a complaint arguing that the Massachusetts demand for documents violates its federal constitutional rights. In Wednesday's ruling, the Massachusetts court declined to put the proceeding on hold until the Texas court rules. Exxon tried to kill the demand for documents by arguing the investigation is politically motivated. The company cited a March speech from Healey where she said, "We can all see today the troubling disconnect between what Exxon knew, what industry folks knew, and what the company and industry chose to share." But the Massachusetts judge said the remarks are not evidence of "any actionable bias" and that it "seems logical" for the attorney general to inform the public about the basis of the investigation. Climate change activists pounced on the ruling -- quickly linked it to Tillerson. "The prospect of a sitting secretary of state becoming entangled in a lawsuit for his role in misleading the public about climate change is as real as it is alarming," said David Turnbull, campaign director for Oil Change International, an advocacy group focused on exposing the true costs of fossil fuels. Related: Despite paper trail, Tillerson denies Exxon lobbied against sanctions Exxon's climate change history became a flashpoint in Tillerson's confirmation hearing. At one point, Senator Tim Kaine, Hillary Clinton's 2016 running mate, read from a 1982 letteruncovered by Inside Climate Newsthat was written by an Exxon scientist. "Over the past several years a clear scientific consensus has emerged regarding the expected climatic effects of increased atmospheric CO2," Roger Cohen, Exxon's former director of theoretical and mathematical sciences laboratory, wrote in the letter. Cohen wrote that the "consensus is that a doubling of" carbon emissions from pre-industrial revolution levels would cause a rise in temperatures that would "bring about significant changes in the earth's climate." Exxon also faces a climate change investigation from New York Attorney General Eric Schneiderman. A New York State court ordered Exxon to comply with two subpoenas last fall. Exxon has denied allegations of funding climate change denial. Exxon said it rejects "long-discredited conspiracy theories that attempt to portray legitimate scientific observations and differences on policy approaches as climate denial." CNNMoney (New York)First published January 12, 2017: 10:53 AM ET
  19. Hydro Nutrients Question

    I’ve pretty much given up on a straight organic nutrient schedule. Thanks to one sage on this forum, I bought hydro nutrients for my DIY soil-less mix. It’s clear to me that the hydro nutes are far more complete than anything I was able to produce with my organic teas. I learned the truth of that with the current grow and switched to hydro later in the veg period. From further readings, the pundits say that organic is compatible with hydro, so all is not lost, I suppose, and I still gave the ‘soil’ AEM, worm and/or bat guano tea and molasses from time to time. All liquid applications to the plants were well aerated. Again because of budgetary constraints, I did not replace my pH or TDS pens when they gave out. So much for my mea culpa. Here’s the question: When I fed the plants, I added parts A & B within hours of giving it to the plants. One time, I found the plants not quite dry enough and allowed the hydro to sit overnight. I can’t say I witnessed any difference, but in my readings on the subject, I recall people saying do not add pH up or down to the solution the first day. This indicates that there is some change to the pH over time. I don’t have/can’t find pH up or down in this country, so….. So are the hydro nutes ready for my soil-less mix almost immediately or should I have waited a day? And no. I’m not sure when I’ll be getting another pH pen. So far, I haven’t found one locally and my experience with locally made pens is less than desirable. Besides, isn’t my soil-less mix buffering the solution no matter what?
  20. Assuming that I got approval for using side lighting, I’ve got one last lighting question. This cycle I went with 18/6 for the veg time. With my low budget, I am going to go back to the GLR to save money for the next cycle. So my question is this: would the two T-5 fixtures (two bulbs per) be sufficient to kill off the auxins or whatever they are and keep the plant in the veg state or do I need to fire up the HID for that hour? I have two timers and could run the HID on one and the T-5’s on the other to accomplish this.
  21. This year was the first time I used side lighting and I used it almost all the way through the grow. That consisted of twin T-5 bulbs hung horizontally in a reflective fixture. (Think shop light.) I used two fixtures opposing one another across an approximately 4-foot bed. The first question is…..was this a good idea or a total waste of electricity? I’ve certainly read the argument that the plants only accept light from above, yet people grow with un-hooded vertical HID lamps, for instance and white floors are advocated by most. If, in general, it wasn’t a terrible idea (more light is better, isn’t it?) then was using opposing colors a good idea or bad? When the blue light MH bulb was in use, the side lighting was warm white; when the red light HPS bulb was in use, the sidelights were cool white. I was thinking that a bit closer to full spectrum would be desirable. You need to know that my HID lamp is only 400W. I have two of them but only used one for budgetary reasons. The bed is about 4x4’. The T-5’s are a perfect fit. I have four of those but didn’t use them all as I also wanted access to the plants.
  22. I read this a bit ago and adopted it for my crop because I’m about as lazy as they come. The poster assured everyone that using the MH bulb through the first two weeks of flowering increases trichome production. His theory was that Trichomes are generated to protect the plant/calyxes from the blue end of the spectrum. Maybe. I dunno; I’m no biologist. But a couple of things occur to me. First is that for the first few weeks after they switch to flowering, there are no Trichomes to begin with. Calyxes are small and immature, so what is the MH doing for the plants? If his theory were correct, wouldn’t it be better to use the MH bulb at the end of the flowering cycle rather than the beginning? Doing so would, if he’s correct, bolster the trich development and ripening and, because MH bulbs produce fewer lumens than HPS bulbs, would lower the light amounts to the plant while maintaining the 12/12 formula. As a side question, does anyone think a Reduced Light Schedule is a good thing? If it is then moving the MH exposure to the end of flowering might be a good thing after all.
  23. Again I have to say that my first experiences in cultivating cannabis were with outside plants and in a very dry, hot climate. Indoor growing is relatively new to me and cannabis cultivation is something I put away for 40 plus years. The conventional wisdom is that our rooms need to be light tight else we won’t get to the flowering stage. I do my best to achieve this but it’s not 100%, I’m certain. In any case, I always get to the flowering stage 10-14 days after switching to 12/12. I do not use a dark period between veg and flower. But way back when, I certainly did not attempt to block moonlight from reaching my plants and they all went to flower with great aplomb. So what’s the deal with light leaks really? I recently read a post where he claimed that true darkness really only mattered until the plants were in flower; after that, one could relax about minor light leaks. I can assure you that no light leak in my room is equivalent to moon glow. Curious minds want to know.
  24. In all my reading, there seems to be a consensus that our plants require cool to grow and produce. I try to keep mine somewhat cool but am constrained by the cost of electricity. I’m on a very tight budget. My earliest cultivation experience is outdoor growing in the upper Sonoran Desert. It’s not cool there until winter and well past harvest time, I can assure you. I’ve also traveled through Columbia, Panama, Mexico, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Burma and Thailand. You’ll recognize that all of these locations are famous for their cannabis. You’ll also have to realize that not one of these places is noted for its cool climate. I realize that there are areas of each of these countries and other cannabis producing countries which do have cool-ish temps, and this includes the Peruvian cannabis I got in Peru, for instance. But far more of the vaunted weed seems to come from very hot climates. So where does this trope come from that plants absolutely require seemingly unrealistic or unfamiliar temperatures?
  25. The downside of feminized seeds There must be one. To date, I’ve had zero experience with feminized seeds. I understand that these seeds are better than 95% guaranteed to produce female plants. As everyone else who uses regular seeds, I’m annoyed when, after a couple months of vegging, I find males in the mix. I always view this as a waste of time, effort and materials, including lighting. So the idea of feminized seeds has great appeal. However, I wonder if we give something up in going that route. There is no free lunch, so I’d expect to lose vigor, yield, potency or something by using feminized seeds. What says the community?
  26. Transplanting Questions

    My understanding is that plants should be progressively up-potted mostly to avoid the over watering syndrome which arises from starting a seed in too large a container. I’m OK with that concept and use it. My question has more to do with timing plus one side query. Do you wait until the plant is root bound or just until the roots reach the outer edges of the container? To date, I’ve never gotten a plant to be root bound to the extent I see them in photos on forums or elsewhere. The second part of this is, do you break up the root ball prior to moving into the next sized container or not? I’ve always broken up the root ball. Am I wrong to do so?
  27. It is what it is

    Hello fellow cultivators! I’m still here, though I wasn’t sure I was going to be. This has been a very tough year for me as my COPD came crashing in and has pretty much laid me low. After visiting a couple of hospitals and a handful of doctors and pretty much stopping cigarettes, I’m somewhat better at the present. I’ve been here reading but not posting. As to the new format of the forum, I guess I approve. It’s taking some getting used to. This is the most recent photo I have from my garden. We’re about 5 weeks into flower with 3-12 weeks left to go. And I’ll be damned if I harvest before this crop is done this year. This crop is what it is even if it ain’t real pretty. I moved south last February almost a full degree of latitude and into a standard house, the first I’ve rented in this country. My growing room is far superior to my last one in that inside temps are far more manageable, I’ve been able to achieve a far darker environment than the last try and at the same time, I’ve surrounded the area with flat white painted sheetrock instead of my foil covered Styrofoam. Needless to say, I have far greater reflected light than the previous attempts. The downside is that we are not getting the winter I experienced when we first moved here. I wish someone would pass a bit of that cold down to us! Because I’ve been ill, most of my disposable income has gone to doctors and meds and I really haven’t been able to put as much effort into the crop as I would have liked. I’ve got eight questions for you which I have broken down into separate postings. Most of these are lighting questions and one will go into the Hydro sub-forum. They are more or less distinct questions I’ve been mulling over for a time. I’m looking forward to hearing from everyone but mostly from DB, LR and FG, if she’s still current. A lot of wisdom out there and I’m ready to receive. As to this grow, I switched to Hydro nutes well into the veg period. All of this grow is a series of experiments, but one thing I tried was to over-feed the plants. I failed in that effort but did put them in to a state of Nitrogen Toxicity which I’m now trying to correct by only giving water with some DIY Cal-Mag. The Toxicity caused very weak stalks and stems and all of the plants required staking. The stakes you see are meter long bamboo splints. You can judge the height of the plants from that. The plants are in 10” hard plastic tapered pots. The one bit of success I can claim is that I’ve been able to keep a lot of the fan leaves on the plants and keep them green and working. It’s now obvious that in the past I stopped feeding them properly far too early. Hope everyone is healthy and happy!
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